After nearly two weeks hanging out with our cousins we headed up through Atlanta to North Georgia. In route we had stopped by our first Trader Joe’a market we had seen in nearly six months. The checker sensed our enthusiasm and generously gave us a bouquet of flowers for the coach. We continue to be humbled by the random kindness of strangers.

We got a late start, coupled with city traffic and found ourselves navigating the winding mountain roads of North Georgia in the dark. Located in Suches, just below North Carolina near the Tennessee border we were glad to arrive at Vogel State Park. One of Georgia’s oldest state parks, Vogel is located at the base of Blood Mountain in the Chattahoochee National Forest.The campground is well maintained and remains one of the prettiest state parks we have visited.

Six years had passed since our last visit to my dads home town.  He had acted as tour guide at that time showing us his childhood haunts and even sharing pears pulled from the tree he picked from as a kid. While he grew up having very little his childhood extremely rich.

It is always special to stop by his childhood school named after the locally famous Ranger Woody. Everyone in the community looked up to Ranger Woody. My dad would tell the story of him as a kid catching a record fish at Lake Winfield Scott, his local fishing spot. Ranger Woody was there and he was so proud to show the respected Ranger his prize catch. There happened to be a newspaper man there who took a picture of Dad, Ranger Woody and his prize fish. He was so excited to run home and share the news with his family. Several days later when the paper came out there was the picture in all it’s glory. It could of been dads most proud moment in his young life. Unfortunately the newspaper gave credit to Ranger Woody for the catch. My dad never again saw the respected Ranger Woody in the same light.

The Suches community was small and families were big and spread out among the rolling mountains. Most everyone seemed to know each other. The population here in the late twenties and early thirties was estimated around three hundred. People were spread out among the mountains and met at the general store for household supplies and to catch up on the latest news. They lived off the land much like the Native Americans that came before them. Every visit here is a step back in time.

My dad had passed away shortly before we departed for our trip and our stop here was not only to honor my dad and keep his history alive in all of us but to also connect with some family. One cousin in particular, Clyde Harkins. Cousin Clyde is a WWII veteran and one of five brothers who served in the war. He is an oral historian and an expert on flora and fauna of the area. During the depression he worked with my grandfather building roads through the untamed mountains.

It is pretty cool knowing the road we were driving on was built in part by my Grandfather and cousin Clyde. We learn so much from Clyde every time we visit. He is a local treasure and everyone knows the Harkins’ boys. While I was taking a photo of the article below a gentleman from Connecticut who married into a local family started to share the lore of the Harkins’ boys. I told him I was related to Clyde Harkins and that I had just left his house.  Suddenly and only for a moment I seemed to embody a small piece of that lore in the eyes of that stranger.

Growing up in the shadows of Blood and Slaughter Mountains, Clyde has lived off the land here since he was a kid. He has a beautiful property and gave us a tour which hosts a broad variety of food sources from fish, wild turkey and deer to Ginseng root,  potatoes and ramp (wild onion). We sampled everything growing out of the ground.

They could create volumes of books with the stories, experiences and breadth of knowledge this man possesses.

We couldn’t leave with out a trip into the nearby town of Dahlonega. My dad would tell stories of him riding on the running boards of his dad’s Model T Ford the sixteen miles from Suches to Dahlonega to get a haircut, a bag of peanuts and a coke. The coke and peanuts set him back a nickel. We now stop in to see the large resident taxidermied rattle snake which lives in the Dahlonega General Store.

 

Dad hated snakes and these along with Copperheads and Cottonmouths are abundant in these parts.

This sign sits just a few feet from the Appalachian Trail and is further testament to Ranger Woody’s legacy. We have so much family history here, coupled with so much natural beauty it’s no wonder why my dad was so proud of his Georgia roots.

This upstairs apartment in the closest corner is the last place I got to visit my grandparents.The downstairs housed an auto repair shop until some one recently purchased the building and is now home to a coffee house. The building is located on the town square in Blairesville, GA just a short drive from Suches.

We couldn’t believe our time in Georgia had come to an end. Our departure left us with heavy hearts but so grateful for the time we had with our family. We looked forward to heading to Nashville to see old friends and more family.

Despite being raised on the shores of Southern California we came across subtle reminders of my Georgia hillbilly roots on the way out of town.

We had the Peach State on our minds as my father was raised in the mountains of North Georgia just below North Carolina. As a result we have a fair amount of family concentrated here. Mostly located south west of Atlanta near the Alabama border. This stop was on our itinerary from the start and we were all excited to spend time together. When we arrived they directed us to our campsite next to their neighbor.

Since my three cousins all have land and knew we were coming,  we assumed they would have prepared a more suitable campsite. The kids were scared of the neighbor so we opted to park on the front porch.

Arriving on my Fiftieth birthday most of our family joined in to help celebrate at a local restaurant.

My buddy from high school who is a travel writer worked his schedule to coincide with our Georgia visit. He pulled his rig onto my cousins property and joined in the festivities.

My daughter got a hold of him and painted his finger nails. Such a trooper. We were stoked to see him and I was happy to see him proudly display the Growler sign I had givin him years ago. Growler is the name of the toilet at one of our local bars.

More on his adventures and my birthday on his blog Ramblings from the Road.

We had fun catching up with everyone and this made a great kick off to a wonderful visit.

My Dad’s sister who happens to also be my Aunt Rubie Dianne is known in these parts as “Fishin Dianne”. She has fished all her life, loves the outdoors and like my dad has a library of life experiences and humorous stories to match. She is not one to worry about what anyone thinks, living life on her terms. Although she lets my cousins help out from time to time.

My dads other sister Ruth had three boys the youngest one being my age. The other two are MUCH older (insert HA, HA). The youngest and oldest live on a lake and the middle brother lives a short drive away. They all live close to Aunt Rubie Dianne and will tell you they help her out all the time. Aunt Rubie Dianne says they’re good to her and help out from time to time. If the boys spoil her anywhere near the way they spoiled us she is in great hands.

The view of Camp Bailey from the water.

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Rural Georgia is way different than Southern California.

Our country cousins in rural Georgia have a bit different life than ours in Southern California. They have open space, Long Horn steers for pets, firing ranges in their front yards and fishing off the back porch. They are quick to give of themselves, look out for their neighbors, patient but strict teachers, beyond generous and love to talk smack on one another. No family member is safe from the smack talk. They made us feel at home the minute we rolled into town. Especially when the oldest brother asked us if we knew how family and fish are alike?  Uh, okay I’ll bite, how? “They both get to stinkin after three days”. (Insert laugh track here).

 

Like my dad and Aunt Rubie, Tony lives life on his terms. He is good with his hands, a trained EMT and first responder with certification in swift water rescues. He is currently part of a surgical team at a local, nationally recognized hospital where he works with post-op paitents. His real passion however is fishing. He is equipped with a wealth of local knowledge and gear to put you on the fish in a number of local rivers and lakes. He always out fishes his oldest brother who is retired. You would think being retired would give him time to perfect his approach.

Early morning on the Chattahoochee River. Safety orientation and the bets going down.

Heading down river.

Our guide putting us on the fish.

And when you get tired of fishin you go play in the dirt.

It helps when your neighbor has a ten acre motocross track in his front yard.

All of this play time was mixed in with school,  family meals and hangin out around the fire.

We were spoiled with a ton of fun, many great meals and quality time with our family. We were sad to leave as family ties grew stronger and the next generation bonded. One last get together before we headed to my dads home town in north Georgia.

Until next time, thank you to all of our family for their wonderful hospitality. We cherish our time together. It all went too fast. We had the best time ever and look forward to soon getting together again.

 

 

Nearly ten months on the road in an RV, homeschooling our kids, taking roads less traveled to experience as much of this great land of ours as possible and we would do it all over again in a heart beat. The following contains some of the things we perhaps underestimated when planning our adventure.

The generosity of family,  friends and strangers –  Along the way we have been completely humbled by peoples generosity. Family, old friends, new friends, park rangers and complete strangers have generously given time, directions, local knowledge, a meal (or many), a place to park for the night (or several), taken care of our dog, provided once in a lifetime experiences and have just been generally nice. These moments are what has made our adventure so wonderful. They touch us deeply and fill our hearts with appreciation for each and every person we have the good fortune to encounter.

Peter, the owner of Crown Winery power washing the Tennessee mud off our vehicles after I got in a bit deep in his parking area. In his regal English accent said, “If you don’t get it off now, it’ll be stuck on there until June”. Since it was March I let him go to work. A memorable evening and early morning tour around his property, he continued to treat us as distinguished guests.

Cost of Camping – We established a nightly budget for campground accommodations based upon past experience, advice from a trusted source and internet research. Occasionally, however our budget gets completely blown. While State Parks are our preference and typically offer a lower nightly rate than private campgrounds they are not always located where you want to go. Most State Parks offer water and electric hook-ups and many also offer camp sites with no hook ups. Fewer amenities can mean a lower rate, but not always.

We found State Park campgrounds to range from eight dollars to seventy five dollars per night depending upon amenities and location. California seems to carry the highest State Park camping fees. We have camped for free in the yards of friends, family, the occasional church and Walmart parking lots. Although the free Walmart stay is usually accompanied by a grocery bill. Private parks range from twenty-five dollars on up  depending upon location and amenities. The private RV parks that carry the “Resort” moniker are always carry a higher price. Thankfully we have had very few high priced nights. Excluding our time in the Florida Keys and thanks to many friends and family we have kept close to our nightly budget.

Exercise: I had planned on losing a couple pounds and staying fit. I might as well insert a huge laugh here, (HA, HA). Our routine at home consists of regular exercise. On the road we inconsistently hike, bike and paddle board. We always try to integrate hiking and biking into our explorations. We have found that an exercise routine takes a more diligent approach while traveling. So if you think it is hard fitting it in at home, when you get on the road it can be even more difficult. Never mind thinking you have all this spare time to get it done. There is school, travel days, camp set up and break down, sight seeing, visits to museums, historical sites and attractions.  Visits with family and friends over great food. There always seems to be something going on not to mention the occasional injury. Exercise is something that must be prioritized. We love the days we are out and active.

 

Clothing: It crossed my mind we would be buying clothing while on the road. However with three growing kids it has been more than I expected. Truthfully I didn’t think about it at all. What? You need shirts, shoes, and socks? What do you mean you broke your flip flops? That jacket doesn’t fit? The wake up call was when all three kids needed shoes because they were worn out. We seem to have purchased the most clothing for our daughter who has sprouted up over the last eight months. The boys wear their clothes until they either don’t fit anymore or until they are too ratty with dirt and holes.

I tried to improvise where possible.

 

Propane – Cold weather, our daughters baking and daily cooking had us burning through more propane than expected. Propane also fuels our refrigerator when not hooked up to electricity. In cold weather if there’s no electrical hook ups to run our electric heater then we burn through more propane.

Pricing for propane varies based upon market fluctuation and where you purchase. Not always easy to find, we are thankful when we get a deal. While the expense for propane is not astronomical we had no clue how much we would be using until we were on the road for a while. It took a while to get to know our tank and how long we could go between fill ups.

 

Fire Wood – What is camping without campfires and Smores? Campfires provide a great time for family bonding and require… yes, you guessed it, wood. With the spread of destructive insects most states encourage you to buy local wood where you burn so you do not transport harmful pests. Some parks allow you to gather fallen wood to burn but we have found them to be far and few between.

As a result, at five bucks plus per bundle add in the cost of Smores, it’s an expense I never thought about when preparing for the trip. We became resourceful and asked the occasional construction site for scraps.

 

Medical Expenses – Yes, medical expenses. Our daughter has braces and we knew they may require some attention along the way. I never thought much about any of us getting hurt. We carry over priced and under covered medical insurance but there is a massive deductible. When one of our kids required x-rays, I immediately told them they would have to work off the expense.

All kidding aside it would have been prudent to earmark some cash for  minor medical.

Toll roads – You mean I have to pay to drive on this poor excuse for a road? New York state reached deeper into our pockets than any other state. It seemed every time we hit a toll they wanted between eighteen and forty dollars, OUCH! Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Florida also required tolls but no one hit us like New York. This is another piece of the budget puzzle I missed.

How time flies – We have regularly stayed in touch with a few friends and family back home. Knowing life would go on while we were away, still didn’t prepare us for how fast time has gone by. We are conscious about being present every day to soak in our experiences which seems to veil the march of time. When we first discussed taking this trip we didn’t picture what it might look like six, seven, eight months in. Now that we have hit those benchmarks it doesn’t feel like we have been on the road that long. While the kids go through periodic bouts of homesickness no one is ready to head for home just yet. Our advice is to try and enjoy every minute, even the hard parts because you’ll be back in the rat race before you know it.

How many people think about doing this – You mean we are not the only ones? When we share what we are doing with people inevitably they respond with, “I always wanted to do that or I wish I could do that”, which makes us feel all the more grateful for seizing the opportunity and appreciative of all the people who generously open their homes, their hearts, their time, their help and are giving us the adventure of a lifetime.

And lastly, How much time I would be able to spend working on our blog – It’s Late June and I am posting about early March. I had no idea that living this adventure and the lack of available internet connection would stand in the way of keeping current. So if your following us, it’s just a bit behind.

 

A nearly five hundred fifty mile drive landed us at our final few days in Florida. It was spring break for many east coast states and campgrounds were full. We managed to land a single night at Grayton Beach State Park located just west of the town of Watercolor. The location of the Jim Cary film, The Truman Show. After a long day on the road the sugar white sand and a beautiful sunset were welcome sights.

The following day we arose to try our luck fishing in the gulf.

Grayton State Park offers two camping loops, the old one is dirt road offering narrow private sites many of which back up to a large inlet containing a few alligators. The new one offers a paved road and spacious less private sites. We were in the old loop. Evidently that’s where the large raccoons like to hang out as we busted one in the middle of the night trying to break into one of our cargo holds to get at the dogs dry food. They have bandit masks for a reason.

I had sent a text to my fellow road warrior buddy Greg  to let him know where we were. He travels the country taking photos of campsites and writes a blog, Ramblings from the Road,  He was quick to text me photos of spots where we both had stood at Grayton Beach State Park.

On the other side of the inlet is the campground and where most of the alligators live since the water is not as salty. Good to know but not so comforting.

Taking advantage of our short stay here we drove a couple miles east to the town of Watercolor located on the Gulf.

Although we had never been here before it held an eerie familiarity. Come to find out this was the location for the Jim Carey movie, The Truman Show.

The town center, shaped like a closed horseshoe is anchored by an outdoor sunken amphitheater surrounded by a number of low rise buildings around the top of the curve.

There are a half dozen Airstream trailers converted to food trucks on the opposite side behind the amphitheater.

 

While quaint and unique, the town possessed a certain sterility whitewashed in a single sense of character. And they charge through the nose for it.

I did however find my new car here.

Our short drive the following day to Henderson Beach State Park located in Destin, Florida provided one of the most RV friendly state parks we had visited to date.

All the sites were pull through and private. The weather was great and we took advantage with time on the beach. There was a wind swell generating small surf. Gavin and I launched the SUP’s and spent a couple hours riding waves. Blue skies and sunshine with crystal clear and warm…ish water made for an ideal session.

No sooner had we arrived back at camp than the wind turned on shore and the temperature dropped enough to make it chilly.

Good time to crack the books and get some school work out of the way. We had reserved two days here and wanted to stay another but this park was in high demand due to spring break. Arriving at the ranger station on our day of departure I asked if they might be able to accommodate us another night. The ranger said they had one spot available for one more night. It happened to be ours.

We stuffed nearly three months of good times in Florida, it was early March and we were excited for the pending leg of our trip. Georgia and Tennessee, chalked full of family and friends held promise of good times. The weather turned less than perfect providing more incentive to get on the road.

Adios Florida

Heading north through the south east corner of Alabama we landed in an Army Corps of Engineers campground. Located on a lake with spacious, paved pull through sites. It was the eve of my fiftieth birthday and the campground host had placed us in the perfect site. (Site 49)

On our way to Bowdon, Georgia to spend my Birthday with friends and family we stopped in Montgomery Alabama to teach the kids about Rosa Parks and her role in the Civil Rights movement and to pay homage to the one and only Hank Williams.

Off to the party.

Disney World had not been on our radar. Our journey around the country was more about US History, State and National parks and just being in nature. When grandparents decided to give our family a day at Disney World for Christmas our mantra was challenged. Of course the grandparents won and we had the best day ever. Or as our eight year old best put it, “You know, Disney World isn’t just for fun, its about making memories that last forever”.

Fort Wilderness campground offers a first class camping experience. The sites are private. and well spaced. They have a massive pool with a water slide and show Disney movies around a campfire complete with smores and hot chocolate. It’s easy to see why people make this a destination.

We settled in our campsite in the high rent district and hit the pool.

Evidently we had arrived at the high rent district as all the surrounding coaches were… uh, high end.

The campground was full of wild life and I’m not referring to just our kids.

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The next morning promised a full day in the park and we couldn’t wait.

Transportation to the Magic Kingdom from the campground via boat. Under the threat of rain, it held off and the weather was perfect.

We made it.

The Haunted House looking so inviting.

Pushing thirteen hours of the happiest place on earth we stopped in the middle of the parade route to get one last shot.

As parents Disney World is kind of like Las Vegas, twenty four hours fulfills us for a very log time. The kids on the other hand would actually like to live there.

Zig zagging across Florida we were on our way to see an old friend from California but not before a a few stops along the way. Cocoa Beach and nearby Cape Canaveral were on the itinerary. Cocoa Beach to hopefully catch some surf and see where the greatest competitive surfer of all time, Kelly Slater grew up and  Cape Canaveral to view the Space X Falcon 9 rocket launch.

The drive towards Cape Canaveral was plagued with high winds making it one of the most challenging travel days to date. There were several accidents including a car that had driven off the side of the road into a swamp. Uh, no thanks since we know what lives in there.

Arriving at our campground we once again scored the last available spot.

After school work we headed into Cocoa Beach, Hometown of surf Champion Kelly Slater.

Even though the conditions were near perfect there was not enough swell to get me excited enough to paddle out.

We headed to Cape Canaveral to witness the rocket launch. With a little internet research we found the optimal viewing spot at the harbor entrance where all of the cruise ships go by. We got there early and staked our claim at the end of the fishing pier.

We came across local wildlife on the way to our viewing spot.

Despite our best efforts in getting there to watch the launch of the Space X Falcon 9 rocket the launch was scrubbed with forty seconds until lift off.  We were stoked we put ourselves in the position to see it, but disappointed it didn’t launch. When news of the scrubbed launch got out the crowds dispersed quickly.

Next morning we headed south to Fort Pierce to see an old friend from California. Fort Pierce is located on Florida’s east coast and is known as the Sunrise City, sister city to San Francisco, the Sunset City. She and her son had moved here several years ago and we had lost touch for a while. We were so glad to reconnect and spend a wonderfully long weekend together. Fort Pierce would not have been on our itinerary otherwise and we were so thankful we visited this part of Florida.

Our gracious host spoiled us rotten. We definitely could get used to this spot in the world.

The neighborhood is chalked full of unique homes all of which have a matching boat.

I may have found fisherman’s heaven. The backyard offers over eight species of deliciously edible fish. If that’s not enough, the Atlantic ocean is a twelve minute boat ride away. Nearby friends opened their home for cocktail hour on our way to dinner.

Our dinner crew grew with each stop.

Biking to dinner is always the best. Doing it with great company is even better.

So lucky to have been able to reunite with our old friends and spend so much quality time together. We said our goodbyes late that night and headed out early the next morning for a nearly five hundred fifty mile drive to our final Florida destination. Farewell Atlantic coast.

 

 

 

E.G. Simmons is a county park located on the south end of Tampa Bay offering first come first serve campsites and beach and bay access. We lucked out getting the last available site. They do have a few rules however.While not expressly written, evidently weapon filled pinatas are on the list too. Kyra unimpressed with the list of “No’s”.

Even though we were only here for a couple of nights we settled in scoring the last available site.The high water marker is a constant reminder of the potential dangers here.

So are the fearless raccoons. Whatever you do, don’t turn around.As well as the carnivorous Osprey.The do however allow beautiful sunsets.

A short drive away lies the TECO power plant which is famous for it’s massive migration of Manatees and Spinner sharks to their warm water disbursement channel.The Manatees and Sharks are a popular attraction even mid week late in the day .

The stars of the inlet. Manatees migrate here in large numbers.

So do Spinner sharks. There are a couple different theories why the sharks breach. One is that they are trying to stun fish surrounding them so they are easier to catch and the other is to shake off the feeder fish attached to their bodies. Regardless of the reason it is an amazing sight to see. I got lucky and captured two sharks breaching in the photo above.

The following morning we circumnavigated Tampa Bay to visit the parents and sister of my childhood best buddy.

I had spent so much time with them growing up in Southern California they were like my second family. They had recently moved to Clear Water within a mile of their daughter. I was so grateful to see them in their new home and spend time together. I made sure they know how much they mean to me and left a bit teary eyed knowing I may never have the opportunity to see them again face to face.

 

Backtracking south to Sarasota and Nokomis we headed out to spend the weekend with a family we met while in the Keys. They full time it in their Airstream trailer and live in a sweet campground named, The Royal Coachman located on an inlet about a mile from the gulf. We had spent some magical times together over the holidays, ringing in the New Year and were excited to connect again.

When we arrived we were told our campsite was located on the Inner Circle.  Wow, just arrived and already part of the Inner Circle. Aren’t we special.

The best site in the park happened to be our friends. The site of good times.

With great weather we were excited to hit the water and filled the afternoon with a paddle to Snake Island located a mile and a half away at the inlet to the Gulf.

Combing for shark teeth in the white sands, we scored!

This spot in the world is beautiful, a bit wild and full of things to do.

It’s February and almost like a West Coast summer evening.

Appreciating our time together we left our friends to get back to their routines. With an early morning goodbye, they promised to visit us in California and we took off across the state towards Orlando.

 

Leaving our friends in Fort Myers with visions of our water adventures fresh in our heads the kids were less than pleased to stop by the local library to catch up on their studies. It was a warm, beautiful day with clear skies making it a total crime to be indoors but school work had to be completed. I am notorious for taking the family on adventures and pushing studies to the side. So the kids blame me when they have a heavy workload to complete. Guilty as charged.

With heads in the books our day got away from us before we had secured a campsite for the night. It was a holiday weekend and since the entire northeast comes to Florida for the winter I was having difficulty finding a spot. I walked out the front of the library to make some calls and low and behold there happened to be a church next door with a large parking lot in the back.

I walked into the church where I met Father Ray. I shared our story, offered to help with anything I could around the church and he gave us his blessing to stay as long as needed. He even invited our family to a pot luck dinner with the congregation that night which I graciously accepted. This stop was made memorable by the kindness of strangers.

Walking the dog early the next morning I stopped by the library next door to check the hours so the kids could continue their studies. They lucked out as the library was closed so we headed north towards Tampa Bay. Several of our close friends parents live in the area and we planned on making the rounds.

Landing in Bradenton we were greeted with open arms by two of the most wonderful people. Parents of our dear friend Stephanie, we soon realized why she is so amazing. She is a direct reflection of both of her parents. Jan and Jim treated us to a swim in their pool and a soak in the Jacuzzi, yes we checked for alligators before jumping in, it is Florida after all.

We greatly appreciate a home cooked meal and they spoiled us with several. We are so grateful for the opportunity to spend time and get to know them better.

Jan surprised us the following day by treating the kids to a day at Tree Umph adventure course. A high in the trees obstacle course. She was originally going to join us but had something come up so we found ourselves in Florida’s interior, high in the trees navigating an obstacle course complete with carabiners and zip lines. This was another first for the family. Challenging and strenuous with just a hint of danger provides the perfect recipe for a rewarding adventure.

Preparing for the challenge.

Trust your harness.

Mom displaying beautiful form. She had walked across the single cable only to realize you are supposed to swing by a rope into the cargo net. She came back to go at it like Tarzan.

Kyra crushing it hands free.

The Course culminated with a zip line spanning the length of a football field flying high over man eating alligators.Okay there were no alligators, but there could have been.

Upon completion of the course we didn’t know if we should thank Jan or curse her for the amazing day as we all left feeling sore and tired. Thank you Jan, it was a great day and left us wanting to do it again. After we recuperate of course.

Back in the neighborhood the parking police give us an option to leave the coach at the neighborhood park but we wanted to be surrounded by nature and opted for nearby Lake Manatee State Park.

Not far from the gulf but feeling like Florida’s deep interior Lake Manatee is a large recreational lake surrounded by dense Palmetto palms and pine trees.

The Palmetto palms are thick making short cuts nearly impossible. Couple that with a healthy population of dangerous snakes made me thankful I was not an early settler here.

 

Did I mention alligators?My early morning revealed a mysterious side of the park.Our campsite deep in the Palmetto forest.Is Irish Christmas in February? The campground host still waiting for Ol’ Saint Leprechaun.

Next stop Tampa Bay.

 

 

Mainland Florida held the promise and anticipation of connecting with many old friends, some quite unexpected. While in the Keys I was on a text thread with a bunch of guys wishing each other Happy Holidays when one of the guys reached out. “Where are you”? Mile marker thirty eight in the Florida Keys, I replied. Not sure who had asked but I was sure they were jealous as I had posted a picture of our campsite decorated for the holidays in the feed.

Some time had passed and I was leaving the marina at Sunshine Key headed back to our campsite when I received a phone call. The phone display read, Fort Myers, Florida. I answered expecting a telemarketing call.

In a friendly voice the caller said, “Hello, this is Ghassan, friends with Dusty, I used to come into your bar in Costa Mesa, CA. How are you”? I was ninety percent sure I knew exactly who it was but over twenty years had passed since we had last seen each other. He said, “we live in Fort Myers’s and if you are coming this way we would love to see you and I would like to give you and your family a beach day”. A beach day, what do you mean a beach day, I asked?. “I run a water adventure company on the end of Captiva Island, we offer parasailing, wave runner tours and stand up paddling, in addition to a beautiful beach, I want to host your family for a day at the beach”.

I was standing alone in the marina parking lot surrounded by boat trailers looking around to see if there were hidden cameras as it seemed I was in the middle of an American Express commercial. I was taken by surprise and completely humbled by his generous offer. It was the end of December and I let him know we would be heading his way the second week of February. He said to give him a call when we were getting close. I hung up the phone still blown away at his offer. I went back to camp excited to tell the family. We reconnected through Facebook and a flood of memories filled my head as I looked through his feed in anticipation of our visit.

The toll bridge landed us on the causeway between the mainland and Sanibel Island. On our way over the bridge we couldn’t help but notice the color of the water. It was poo brown, yuck. Our dreams of clear tropical water were dashed.  We pulled off next to the water, got out to stretch our legs and call Ghassan to let him know we were in town. As I watched the family comb the shoreline I got him on the phone.  We were both excited to see one another. As we spoke he said, “make sure you don’t go in the water!” What? Due to excessive rains in January and February the Florida water authority had drained Florida’s largest Lake Okeechobee, to provide flood relief. The result was millions of gallons of water making it’s way into the gulf picking up pollutants along the way. As bad as the water was at Sanibel Island, Captiva Island to the north was not as affected. Ghassan gave us directions to his house and we made our way there to set up our coach for a couple days.

We arrived a bit late, settled in and got to know his young family. Keeping everyone up too late as our kids bonded we finally made it to bed in anticipation of our day on the beach. This area was never on our radar until Ghassan brought it to our attention. We were so glad he did because there is so much to explore in this part of the world.

What, there’s more?

Our tour guide, Captain Eli took us on an adventure north of Captiva Island along the gulf and back through the inter coastal waterway. Along the way we made several stops while he shared information about the area and it’s history. A few highlights being a recent shipwreck in the gulf, Pine Island, the ice houses and cabbage key. This area while developed still feels isolated and wild.

After parasailing, a jet ski tour of the area and a private tour of the South Seas Island Resort our heads were spinning. We capped the night off with our friends around a campfire complete with smores in our hosts front yard. Once again we giggled ourselves to sleep counting our blessings, grateful for our friends and our day. Josie, thank you for your great company and taking such good care of Charlie while we were goofing off all day. If your ever in south / west Florida visit Sanibel and Captiva Islands, it shouldn’t be missed.

 

Everglades National Park

A short drive from Sunshine Key brought us to the home of thousands of alligators, crocodiles, snakes and birds in Florida’s Everglades National Park. In fact there are so many alligators not only in the Everglades but in all of Florida that I started looking in my water glass before taking a drink.

These are the Everglades and they are found no where else ion the planet. We had planned to spend several days exploring the park.

This is the only place on the planet where alligators and crocodiles coexist. If you look at the everglades on Google earth you can zoom into the Flamingo Campground at the southwestern tip of mainland Florida. Despite the name Flamingo, there are none to be found, they have migrated elsewhere as their ideal ecosystem has changed. The area is wild and inhospitable to say the least. In fact there are signs posted claiming that during the summer months, the Everglades are inhospitable to humans. To say the mosquitos are abundant would be an understatement.

We experienced a “bearable” mosquito day and it was a challenge keeping them off. In fact the area in which we were camping is the area where the federal government and chemical companies alike come to test their mosquito repellents. We tried homeopathic remedies first but shortly resorted to DEET as it was the only thing to keep them at bay. The kids said one night in the Everglades would be enough and we agreed.

We checked out Flamingo visitor’s center and were getting all of our questions answered by a very knowledgeable Ranger Taylor when I realized the ranger standing next to him was the same ranger that we had met months earlier in Acadia National Park in Maine. In fact, he had run the kids through their junior ranger program and swore them in as Junior Rangers in Acadia. Kyra and I had complemented his hair when we were in Acadia. She wanted to say something so I urged her to pay a compliment letting her know she would probably never see him again. Or not. We did a little catching up to find out he was assigned to the Everglades for the winter. Good luck with that.

They were closing for the day so we headed across the parking lot to the Marina and discovered our first crocodile of the trip.

The kids were freaking out. It swam into a drainage culvert directly below our feet. We were three feet above him as he inched his way into the pipe. It was tempting to reach down and touch him. Our smarts and the threat of a five thousand dollar fine for feeding or harassing any animals in the park kept us from making any such attempt. The temperatures were mild but after one night and an attempt to take a walk, the mosquitos sent us packing.

We stopped by the ranger station and had our favorite ranger to read the kids the National  Park oath prior to heading out.

After experiencing Flamingo we garnered even greater respect for the men and women who endure this part of the world to share it’s story with others.

We headed out of the park to make our way west across the southern part of the state. We had been told of a casino that allowed overnight camping for free so we made that our next stop as we headed toward the gulf coast.

I found out there were a few perks to staying here when I checked in with security. They offer first time gamblers thirty dollars to get started on the gaming floor and two for one buffet discounts. I came back and let the kids know we were eating out. We took advantage of the buffet and then headed down to the gaming floor. The kids spent some time in the arcade while Laurel and I took turns with our free starter money on the gaming floor. I slowly lost my thirty bucks on the quarter slots and then traded spots with Laurel. She proceeded to win enough to cover any out of pocket experiences and line our pockets an additional five bucks. The kids didn’t want to leave the arcade but it was time to go to bed as the next day we were headed to Big Cypress National Park which comprises the upper portion of the everglades.

Big Cypress National Park

This is the northern portion of the everglades and is slightly less inhospitable to humans. We opted for a guided tour to learn more about the park. We were greeted in the car park by a somewhat imposing mud snake.

There are alligators everywhere.

The tour culminates in a visit to a concrete overlook which rises over the landscape with a view of it’s most menacing residents.

These prehistoric creatures are at the top of the food chain but are typically afraid of humans and typically scatter when you get too close. We stayed the recommended distance and then some.

 

While the alligators are the stars of Big Cypress we were completely blown away when we witnessed a blue heron take off from the water near us with a four foot snake in it’s beak and fly off to finish his meal. While this corner of the world is wild and full of dangerous creatures we learned this ecosystem is in trouble due to changes in rainfall and climate. The parks efforts are concentrated on preservation and education in hopes of bringing attention to the state of the Everglades unique ecosystem.

Not getting enough of the everglades we headed a short distance across the east to west roadway known as alligator alley to Midway campground where we had a reservation for the night.

No Swimming? Midway campground has a lake the size of a football field surrounded with campsites. Reservations only, no walk ups, it’s located about halfway between the Gulf and Atlantic coasts on highway 41. The campground hosts, who spend the winter here had no great concern over the several local gators who occupy the pond. As I cautiously walked the dog near the lake shore I noticed a couple gators following us as they heard the jingle of Charlies collar. Not wanting to become their next meal, Charlie opted for his happy place.

South Florida with it’s alligators, panthers, anacondas and all it’s other wild creatures is a must visit. Take DEET.

Near Miss Number Two

Heading towards Fort Myers on the west coast to see an old friend we narrowly avoided our second major near miss of the trip. Running along the north side of the roadway there is a canal full of, you guessed it, alligators.  The left side is full of…alligators.

Fifty miles per hour was slow enough to catch a glimpse of wildlife and fast enough to not overly irritate the drivers behind us. Under way less than ten minutes on highway 41 AKA, “Alligator Ally”, a minivan was entering the roadway heading towards us at the same time a person was running across the road in about the same spot. As we slowed, the person stopped in the middle of the road and turned around. I’m thinking, “what the”? He started back toward the van to prevent it from coming into our lane. As we closed in, passing closely, the fellow reached into the window of the van steering it back to the safety of the shoulder.  With my heart in my throat and thankful for our safety we realized the guy had stopped to take a picture of a massive gator on our side of the road. He had failed to place his van in park and his quick action averted a catastrophe.

This habitat is unforgiving.

Notice the tail of the other gator next to this big boys head.

Later Gator.

Our last of three different campsites in Sunshine Key was waterfront and perfect for launching our paddle boards. Although with all the rain our site was more of a lake which made paddling from the campsite to the ocean easier. The view made the extra water tolerable.

Our time in the Keys came to a close in early February and we were ready to get back on the road and experience new adventures. We relished our time here and filled our last few days in the Keys with beach time. While we loved our time here we looked forward to heading out to new adventures.

February 8^th departure day after two months at Sunshine Key. It would have been easier if it was pouring rain or freezing cold but it seemed like a near perfect day in the Keys. We focused on the road ahead and re-entered the society de Vagabond.

From perfect weather to weather changing on a daily basis. Winds, rains, leaking RV, leaking truck,

moving campsites three times,

ice cream socials,

doing laundry in a perpetually flooded laundry room, Joe & Tina & Gerry & Mindy who ran the cafe, Rich the magician who provided magical entertainment, a positive attitude and all around great guy, Tom & Donna, Nancy & Tubbs, Lynn & Dean, Mike & Sara, Gayle & Bill, the Milburn’s, all of whom were our Sunshine Key friends and neighbors,  visits from friends and family, who traveled across the country to spend time with us,

live music,

swimming pool, pool parties, jello shots from the volunteer ladies, manatee’s in the marina,

Beautiful Bahia Honda State Park,

fishing from the pier,

 

Seven Mile Bridge,

Conch Republic,

local iguanas,

Kyra’s cupcakes, trips to Key West,

the pastor at New Life church who always seemed to sing off key, the clear water,

and endless sunsets.

With wonderful memories seared in our hearts we knew we would miss the familiarity but absolutely looked forward to getting back on the road.

Departure Day, February 8th. Say goodbye to the keys.