Newport… Rhode Island to New York City

With Massachusetts behind us we headed towards New York City. Our southern route brought us to another nice camp site, “Walmart of Rhode Island”.

Since we are from Newport Beach, California we couldn’t pass Newport, Rhode Island without taking a look.

Few offerings in the way of open campgrounds were available so we unhooked the truck and left the coach in the Walmart parking lot to drive thirty minutes into Newport. There is so much coastline to explore, we knew our meager amount of time here would be inadequate.

Established in 1620, Newport become a major port city in the 18^th century. It now contains the highest number of surviving colonial buildings anywhere in the country. The narrow cobblestone streets lined with historic buildings exude American History. With every turn, it became easy to imagine the time when Newport was a bustling port city free of motorcars. With little room between the street and the buildings it’s a wonder more people don’t get run over stepping out of their house.

As the day grew late we headed towards a spot called, “Land’s End” where a number of massive estates line this north facing stretch of coast. Parking at the head of the cove, a popular surf beach we set out along a path hugging the cliff’s edge and leading over several miles directly in front of a host of mansions.

Homes which were mostly constructed at the turn of the century. All of which are stately and unique. Most were fenced and sat above the path making it difficult to see but a few were in plain view.

We finally found our new home and comfortably settled in to soak up the view. The only thing missing was butler service.

As we made our way towards the point, I envisioned a swell rolling in with perfect surf but the water looked cold as the skies grew dark.

I would have to leave it to my imagination as we made our way back to the truck and eventually our Walmart campsite.

 

Rising sun and idling diesel truck engines started our travel day. Destination, New York City. We took a coastal route hoping to soak in every last sight of this New England coast line. There is so much to see here our short time here only left us making the commitment to return. Settling into the drive, cruising along we were making good time when the smell of propane filled the coach. The crew opened all the windows as we pulled off the road to assess the situation. Safely to the side of the road we all piled out of the coach while I investigated the source of the gas leak. Running down the check list everything seemed okay. The scent had dissipated and we elected to get back underway. Not ten minutes in, the smell was back and stronger this time. There were not many places to pull off the road but as we approached a small town we spotted a fire station and pulled directly in front of their driveway. Soon we had several firemen at our doorstep ready to help. The firemen suggested we take a test drive while they monitored the coach with sophisticated equipment designed to detect ignitable gas. As we made our way around a couple mile loop we met up with the Fire Chief in the Walmart parking lot.

They determined the odor was coming from our sink drains. Our holding tanks were half full and had been sloshing around during the drive stirring up our waste, “EW”. Since we always empty the tanks prior to a long drive we had never experienced the situation.  They suggested we stuff some rags over the sink drains to reduce the odor until we could empty our holding tanks. We all had a good laugh and thanked them for their help. We were back on the road to New York City.

Rolling down the eastern seaboard through Connecticut, New York and New Jersey, our anticipation grew as we neared the city. Upon breaking free of New York Traffic, entering the New Jersey expressways we were derailed by their toll road system. Signage was often confusing at best. We chose a lane which we identified as the cash lane. Once we made it to the toll booth they tried to charge us an exorbitant amount for not having a toll ticket. I refused to pay the fee letting the toll operator know that the signage was inadequate. He insisted we pay the full amount so I let him know he would have to tow our vehicle to get us to move. With a bit of back and forth he knocked seventy percent off the fee which we paid and continued on to Liberty Harbor RV Park located on the shores of New Jersey near the Statue of Liberty. Exiting the roadway we followed the detour signs through a rough looking neighborhood with bars on the windows and torn up streets. We were starting to question our route. Across the train tracks and down a single lane road towards a parking lot we continued to question where we were going.

Liberty Harbor RV Park is located in a parking lot sandwiched between commuter parking lots, a marina, a ship yard, and a low rise building under construction. We had read the reviews and knew most of what we were getting into. Proximity to New York City is the draw here. It’s located directly across the Hudson River from Manhattan and a few blocks from the Path train which leads into the city.

This was the start of our sixty-eight hour visit. After settling into our campsite we headed into the city. Walking the few blocks through the urban jungle to the Path train was a stark contrast from the state parks and nature filled campgrounds we had visited up to this point.

Our first city tour brought us to the site of the Twin Towers, Wall Street and then up town to Time Square. Educating the kids about 9/11 while standing at ground zero was surreal. We had visited in 2002 before we had children and similar emotions rapidly surfaced.

Heavy hearts flush with emotions, we fought to hold back tears while explaining the events to the kids. Sad for such loss, sad for the pain of so many. Though solemn, our sadness was eased with a sense of pride. Proud of the people of New York City, proud of the city it has become, proud of our country and proud to be an American. Our kids completely understood the gravity of that day. With full hearts and feeling blessed, we walked the few blocks to Wall Street and slowly shed our solemn cloaks to the sights of the city. Walking up to the Bull of Wall Street statue the line was equally as long to take a photo with both ends. We opted for the front end figuring Wall Street craps on enough people.

We caught the subway to Times Square and the kids became confused and amazed when we arose from the subway at ten thirty in the evening to the bright lights. Was it a time warp? Could it possibly be daytime? How could it be so bright? Neon, LED, Massive television monitors and light displays the size of buildings advertising everything from the latest hit-makers to underwear, the kids were in awe. Once we exited the subway we embraced the streets.

It was great seeing the kids experience the hustle and bustle of Times Square for the first time. Grabbing some New York pizza, we hung out until way past their bedtime and found ourselves returning to the campground around midnight. They were so wiped out and ready for bed they pushed through the walk of fear without complaint. It wasn’t until days later the kids only revealed they were scared walking down the empty streets in the middle of the night on the way to the coach from the train station.  Last thing before bed I turned the ac fans on to provide white noise drowning out the sounds of the city. It worked like a charm until the two boom trucks pulled up next to our coach to replace a high voltage transformer above our campsite. They backed their truck in so close I opened a window and offered one of the workers in the truck a cup of coffee.

Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and the Empire State building were on order for day two. Our campground / parking lot was a five minute drive to where we boarded the ferry to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Picking up tickets we asked if there were any torch tour tickets available as they require an advanced reservation. This tour allows you to climb a narrow stairwell up the ladies arm to the torch viewing platform. No luck, however they had some for the platform located just below where the statue is mounted on her pedestal. We got lucky as they only release a limited number of pedestal tickets each day and they typically are gone long  before we showed up.

First leg of the tour dropped us at Ellis Island where we met some Park Rangers who were New Yorkers through and through. At each State and National Park our children participate in a Junior Ranger program. They are provided educational booklets to complete by answering questions and recording relevant information as they tour the park. Once completed they may return to a ranger and receive a badge or a patch. All they while they have learned a great deal about the site. These rangers would be our most memorable to date. This was by far one of the busiest places we had been on the trip. The Rangers tuned into our kids and pulled us aside to give us information on where to get the most out of our time on the island. Sending us on our way they asked us to come back by on our way off the island.

Ellis Island was the choke hole for so many immigrating to our country seeking a new life. The last stop after a long journey before they were free to pursue their dreams. People were processed, evaluated and documented. Most were offered passage but there were those that were turned away and sent back to their country of origin. Days were long for those working on the Island due to the amount of people processed each day.

There were stories of workers becoming desensitized as a result of the situation, however there were also many stories of compassion. Stories of language interpreters being on the front line and helping individuals and families. These were the stories that stood out to me.  It was a lot to take in and after a long while the kids were ready to move on to the Statue of Liberty. We didn’t want to miss the ferry and almost blew off going back by the Rangers but didn’t want to be rude. This would be a valuable lesson as the Ranger was so engaging with our kids and made sure they had completed their packets. There were a ton of people here and they made us feel as though we had a private tour. After receiving their Junior Ranger badges the Ranger also gave us a coffee table book on the history of Ellis Island. A gesture not to be forgotten.

These Rangers exemplified compassion just like in the stories of many of the islands workers we had just learned about. We so appreciated them and expressed our gratitude as we said our goodbyes.

We boarded the ferry headed for the statue grateful for our experience. We were loving New York just maybe not expressing it as much as some of our fellow passengers.

It’s not surprising most of our New York friends have never been to either of these landmarks. I had never been here in my previous visits to New York. We lived in San Francisco for many years and would only visit Alcatraz if we had friends or family who wanted to go. I will say there is a real sense of pride approaching the Statue of Liberty from the water. If you live here it’s something you may just take for granted. An icon for our country the statue represents so much to so many. It is hard not to be excited. The jury is out as some of us thought island and statue are bigger than we imagined and some of us thought is was smaller.

Regardless, we made our way to the security check point to continue our tour. There is a tremendous amount of security at these landmarks spurred by 9/11. Once we were through security we made our way to the pedestal opting for the narrow corridor of stairs and catwalks over the elevator.  The stairs deliver you to the center of the platform just below the statue. At the top is a guard standing at the entrance to the torch where you can look up into the tight and steep stairwell leading upwards. To get to the pedestal however you may exit on each side stepping out into the fresh air onto a passage barely wide enough for two people side by side. We made sure to look at the views in every direction from all sides and four corners, taking lots of pictures.

The whole time pinching ourselves that we had made it here.  Once on the ferry with the copper lady behind us and Manhattan in front of us we were already talking about getting into the city to head to the top of the Empire State Building.

With a pit stop at the coach to take care of the dog we headed out to catch a train into the city. Every subway ride was a cool experience for the kids as we would descend from the bustle of the street through a utilitarian corridor to the noises of the trains below. It was awesome to see their confidence grow as we taught them how to navigate the train system.

Approaching the Empire State building we struggled to see the top as it was illuminated in a blue haze while the clouds enveloped the sky.

As we contemplated the sky prior to entering an employee let us know that visibility at the top would be zero due to the cloud cover. Sure we all want to see the city at night but for the kids just getting to the top was the prize. As we entered the building there were no less than six employees telling us about the poor visibility and that there are no refunds. We politely thanked them and continued on. Approaching the elevators the kids posed for a photo with a man sized statue of King Kong only to find out it was a costumed character who gave them a start as he came to life.

Entering the express elevator the kids couldn’t believe how many buttons there were for the corresponding floors. Almost to the top, we exited to another elevator to get to the viewing platform.

The entire time the staff were letting us know visibility was nearly zero. We stepped outside to the chilly, howling wind. The clouds were blowing by just below us. The guards on the observation deck were bundled up from head to toe trying to stay warm so high in the sky. Then something great happened, the clouds started to break apart offering spectacular views of the city.

We were in awe at the city lights and our good fortune. We soaked in the city from so high above. It couldn’t have been more perfect. As we left the clouds closed in and visibility diminished.

We were off to Chelsea District to meet up with an old friend of Laurels. which. She spent many years preforming in comedy clubs in the city and filled our time with laughs.

The kids had never laughed so hard, they were quickly enamored and didn’t want the evening to end.  But at midnight we said our goodbyes to our friend and the city as we took our sleepy kids on the train home. One last walk from the train station down the dark, foggy streets to the campground.

The kids were asleep before their heads hit the pillows.

New York City today is much different than the city I had first visited in Sixty1986. We experienced many people offer directions and assistance completely unsolicited. Equally when we asked a local to suggest a spot to grab a quick slice, directions or suggestions for a meal they went over and above in stopping to take all the time necessary to share their information. Many times it felt as though people were planted across the city just for us. We always practice situational awareness and the city felt as safe as I have ever known it to be. Due to our short time in the city and short notice of our itinerary we missed connecting with a few friends which provides a perfect excuse to return.