Bouncing South to Fall out of Mass

Leaving Maine we happened off the road to refuel just prior to this wide load rolling by. I’m glad we didn’t meet on the roadway.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 001

An early start to our journey got us down the eastern seaboard to Fort Knox and Penobscot Narrows Bridge early enough to take in the sights. Our goal was to check out Fort Knox. Now this isn’t the Fort Knox that comes to mind laden with gold bars. This is the Fort Knox that was constructed in the late 1800’s to defend this coastline against foreign invaders. As we crossed the rather newly constructed Penobscot Narrows Bridge we could see Fort Knox below. Once across we pulled off to a view point to take a few pictures of the bridge.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 013

As we were clicking away a guy on a motorcycle pulled up next to where we were standing. He lifted the visor on his helmet and over the hum of his engine asked us if we had been up to the top of the bridge. We said, yeah we just drove across. He said, “No, have you been to the top?” He continued to explain that you can take an elevator up to the top of one of the suspension towers over four hundred feet above the river. We had no idea and before we could thank him, he started to ride off. We knew we had to go and looked at each other laughing at how cool it was that some random stranger pulled up to share that with us. As he was driving away I couldn’t get my camera ready fast enough to take a shot of his license plate which read, “Yuck Foo”. Obviously it translates to mean, ”Very Helpful”.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 032

 

A short drive from the viewpoint is the entrance to Fort Knox and Penobscot Narrows Bridge which requires a modest entrance fee for both attractions. Standing at the base of the bridge suspension tower, the top is a long way from the ground.  Inside the base of the tower there is a display describing the history of the old bridge and the construction costs of the new one. We entered the high speed elevator which accelerates you nearly to the top. The last section requires to hoof it up a stairway next to the interior glass siding. At the top is the observation deck enclosed in glass offering incredible three hundred sixty degree views. The host at the top explained the clouds had moved out just an hour before allowing you to see for miles in every direction. Looking down we were glad not to be in earthquake country as it would not be fun to ride one out in the observation deck. With a quick elevator ride down we were back in the car park looking back up to where just moments before we stood high above the earth.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 017 - Copy
From the top looking down on the Windryder in the car park.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 016 - Copy

 

Fort Knox was scary as they were setting up a haunted house throughout the fort for their largest fundraiser of the year. The fort is constructed of granite and built into the hillside along the shore of the Penobscot River. It has multiple levels and open courtyards. There are narrow corridors which link empty, large rooms with numerous dark nooks and crannies in between.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 035

11.2.15 Mass, RI 038

11.2.15 Mass, RI 042

11.2.15 Mass, RI 044
Penobscot Narrows Bridge view from Fort Knox

The time of year couldn’t be better as the facilities were nearly empty. We had the place completely to ourselves aside from the occasional volunteer working on the Halloween decorations. At every turn we stumbled across props in every stage of preparation which many times gave the kids a proper scare.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 048.JPG
Kids playing in the graveyard.

Laurel and I took full advantage of the spooky atmosphere by popping out of the dark corridors and letting out the occasional roar. Along with the fun we learned about the history of the Fort and life of the soldiers there when it functioned as a key line of defense. The weather was great but we had to get on the road to find our next campsite. We let the dog run around and loaded up to head down the coast ultimately ending up in an idyllic location.

While on the road we joined a program called, Harvest Hosts, http://www.harvesthosts.com. Harvest Hosts has developed a network of participating farms and vineyards that allow you to camp on their property overnight. There are a few requirements; you need to adhere to Harvest Hosts code of conduct, be fully self-contained and patronize their establishment. Harvest Host provides the contact information for the farm or vineyard to call ahead for availability and to let them know your expected arrival. You need to show up during business hours which allows time to get to know your host and learn about their products and property. We have met some very passionate people through the program and have received an education each time we have stayed at a participating property. One of our top three campsites was through this program on a small Christmas tree farm and vineyard in New Hampshire. The cost of goods purchased is usually equal to a campsite. We would have purchased the food or occasional bottle of wine anyway. To date we have only stayed in a few participating properties and look forward to more along the way.

Leaving Maine we found our next campsite in New Hampshire through the Harvest Host program. We arrived around four o’clock to a gracious reception by the owner. She welcomed us with an education on the history of her property. They had been farming Christmas trees for twenty years and recently dedicated a portion of their over one hundred acre property to grow grapes. They offer a handful of wines with an emphasis on fruit wines which I have never before tasted. Suppressing my inner wine snob, I prefer bold, earthy reds and oaky chardonnays. While we shied away from the fruit wines we did choose the more traditional Sunny Grigio and Romeo’s Red. She designs the labels and creates the names taking inspiration from her many pets. Sunny and Romeo being her Jack Russell Terriers.

With our purchase she pointed out the location to park for the night across a small pond from their tasting room. The turning leaves of mature alder and maple trees framed the perimeter of the property.  She offered us full run of her property. While I set up the coach the kids found the closest irrigation ditch and were entertained well into the darkness chasing frogs. Inspired by the hand crafted wines I made another dinner to remember and we again giggled ourselves to sleep at our good fortune.

IMG_9794.JPG

I rose with the morning light and walked the property to snap a few pictures as Charlie ran free. The irrigation pond was absolutely still and made for a perfect subject.

 

Mass, RI, Halloween, NYC 003Mass, RI, Halloween, NYC 012

Prior to our departure I drew a quick sketch of the tasting room across the pond and it’s surroundings making it into a thank you card. The kids made their own and we dropped them by their door on our way out to express our sincere appreciation.

As we crossed the border from New Hampshire to Massachusetts we struggled to avoid the last exit.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 072
Following exit offers Gamblers Anonymous and AA
11.2.15 Mass, RI 074
State run one stop shop, offering Lottery tickets too!

Massachusetts

There is so much to see in Massachusetts that we should have planned on staying several weeks here. Fall is not the best time of year to camp in Massachusetts as we found the majority of state and private campgrounds were closed or closing in preparation for winter. The first night we ended up in a Walmart parking lot. This was a stark contrast last night’s picturesque campsite. There were several other RV’s  there and the night was uneventful. At first light we drove to the nearest Starbucks to pilfer free wifi in search of an open campground.

The RV parks that remained open in the area were expensive. With Halloween approaching, we wanted to be stationary for a few days. Our goal was to go to Salem to experience Halloween in all its creepiness. Finding somewhere to stay at the late date proved difficult. The only open campground near Salem was full. Having no interest in driving around trying to find a spot to boon-dock near Salem we headed toward Boston. South of Boston there seemed to be more options for private campgrounds. A few of which were within striking distance of our points of interest. Places like Boston, Plymouth, Martha’s Vineyard and Province Town where Laurel has a cousin.

We located a campground that was open for another few days and headed there with an estimated time of arrival around dark. We were north of Boston and our southern route took us through the heart of the city. There was a storm approaching coupled with a high wind warning providing a sense of urgency to be off the road. We approached the north side of the city around three o’clock. The skies were dark and the rain began to fall just as we joined a sea of brake lights. We had definitely taken the wrong route to our destination as this looked like it was going to take a while. Our original route forced us to find an alternative as our coach was too tall for the low bridges. As we approached Boston, the expressway climbed above the fringes of the city below.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 088

The lanes multiplied and the road became stacked with another level above. There was no getting out. We had become fully committed to the slow flowing tide of traffic. Just when all hope for a speedy route was lost, a turn off emerged. It was a road to freedom, an E Ticket, salvation street or as we called it, “our escape”. The freeway split and we were in the option lane. The signs read, “Boston Bypass”. Since there was little traffic to the right we boldly turned off and followed the road past the sea of brake lights. We were out of that mess and back on track. As the lanes narrowed we realized the Boston Bypass was delivering us directly onto the streets of downtown Boston. As we entered the single lane horse shoe exit ramp we realized we had made a big mistake. Narrow city streets clogged with traffic were not a place for the Windryder. From bow to stern we are just over sixty feet making many old cities impossible to get through. As we approached the red light Laurel was frantically searching Google maps while I was yelling at Suri in a futile attempt to find a way out. To add to the madness we were faced with a scattering of orange detour signs telling us the route we had chosen was closed. The signs led us through the tight streets filled with road construction, pedestrians, bicyclists, cars and trucks. To make matters just a bit tougher it started to rain. Not Southern California rain as we are accustomed but east coast rain that requires the windshield wipers at full speed and quickly fills the gutters with a torrent of water. Our best option was to follow the detour signs. With each turn we questioned the validity of the signs. After several left turns we crossed the intersection we had just exited through but from a different direction. We were really doubting our choice as the skies grew darker and the rain steadied. Through a series of right turns and angry motorists we were now pointing directly at the ramp we had just exited.  We turned to each other and started laughing. Our detour had taken us in a figure eight pattern through the city streets and was now pointing us in the direction of the on ramp to the original expressway. With no other options we thankfully rejoined the sea of brake lights.

We settled into the stop and go traffic as the road began to slope down before us. Caught in the glowing red current, we entered the belly of the city. The sky disappeared, the walls closed in and the rain stopped. The traffic slowed as the space in between narrowed. No exits or signage, only cars merging from the right forcing others to let them join.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 083There was no getting out and through the navigational crisis I had held on as long as possible. I couldn’t take it any longer, my bladder couldn’t wait another minute.

Persuasive conversation got Laurel into the driver’s seat as we bumped along inside the tunnel. Our twelve year old would have gladly taken the helm but he was not ready for the captain’s chair. Hurried, I ran back to the lavatory and braced myself in the small windowless space. The Windryder lurched forward and abruptly stopped, lurched forward and abruptly stopped again reminding me of time spent at sea. Thankfully relieved I resumed my position in the captain’s chair only to continue the pace for another two hours. We finally emerged from Boston’s Central Artery tunnel to near darkness and the rain had stopped. We had spent nearly three hours fighting Boston traffic, half of which was underground. Any future visit into the city would be by rail.

With the city behind us, the winds started to increase and it became very dark. The drive was made more challenging as the expressway shoulder becomes it’s own lane for the evening commute. Every now and then I was politely reminded by the fast approaching head lights in my passenger side view mirror. The expressway soon narrowed to two lanes and rose and fell in the darkness. We continued to gain altitude along the bumpy road as I fought to steady the Windryder in the increasing storm. The rain began to fall lightly with under an hour drive ahead. I kept telling myself a familiar phrase, “never again, drive at night”. This lesson seemingly is always learned after the test.

Our exit continued uphill delivering us to a rural town. We continued in the darkness through rural neighborhoods and sparsely populated roads. At the end of one of these roads awaited Pinewood Lodge, a private campground nestled in a forest of towering pines. Did I say it was dark? It is dark, windy and lightly raining but thankfully not cold. We made our way to the office located deep in the campground. Taped to the office door, there was an envelope with our name on it giving directions to our site.

Heading through the labyrinth of camp sites and pine trees the rain again began to fall as we searched for our site in the darkness. A “back-in” site wedged between several trees with a rock fire pit which would ultimately end up a few feet from our propane tank.  I dawned my foul weather gear and stepped into the rain filled darkness to unhook the truck. With the truck out of the way I jumped back in the coach to back into the site. It was Laurel’s turn to go outside to help direct me into the narrow space. With the coach in place we switched places again as I spent the next thirty minutes getting us settled.

Each campsite requires a similar list of tasks to set up the coach for our stay.  This site offered full hookups consisting of water, sewer and electric. In addition we place blocks under the leveling jacks to provide a solid flat surface for greater stability. This has become fairly easy and uneventful throughout the trip. However tonight was daunting as the rain fell steadily. The wind was howling and whistling through the tall pines. Every now and then a branch would break with a loud crack. With the jacks down and the coach stable I hooked up the water line and crossed my fingers I didn’t get shocked as I threw the breaker for the electrical. Saving the sewer for the morning I got back in the coach to dry off.

We all needed a shower and piled into the truck braving the storm to drive to the shower house. The shower house was a wood framed structure with chicken wire walls covered with tarps. Luckily it was not too cold. Fifty cents for six minutes we maxed out our change. A few wrong turns on the way back provided an unplanned tour of the campground. This would become the norm over our stay as it was easy to get disoriented in the labyrinth of tight dirt roads. Nearly deserted the forested campground looked spooky in the raging storm.  This offered the perfect opportunity to scare the kids with a ghost story but my conscious told me I would be better served by refraining.

Drained from the drive, we settled in and went to bed to recharge. As I lay listening to the impending storm calling the forest to life I couldn’t help but know a tree or branch could get blown onto the coach. I tossed and turned finally falling into a deep sleep.

I awoke to a loud crash, my thoughts had materialized. We had a direct hit. It was loud and the noise spread out across the top and down the outside. It sounded as if person had jumped on top, tumbled across the roof and down the side. I ejected out of bed with the startling noise, heart racing, I got my bearings. Headlamp in hand, I assessed the coach from the inside and found no damage. Surprisingly I was the only one to awake to the loud noise. Once in bed I again struggled to fall back asleep listening to the storm but ultimately managed to slumber deeply until morning.

The winds let up and the rain passed. Greeted by the morning sunlight I stepped onto a wet blanket of fresh pine needles which covered nearly every inch of the landscape. Fresh forest scents filled the air. As breathed in the morning air my tranquility was abruptly interrupted by several nearby gunshots echoing through the forest. Surprise, there is a private firing range close by. This became a periodic familiar sound from early morning til dark every day. Surveying the RV I found the tree branch that struck the coach. I climbed on top to assess the damage. A sizable moss covered branch had fallen across our paddleboards and in between the skylights over the lavatory. The branch struck the large skylight above the shower leaving a scar across the plastic. Thankfully there were no breaks and we escaped any real harm.

School work, School work, school work was the order for the week as we caught up. We broke up the day with hikes around the deserted campground which has a small lake and a few play areas. In fact it was about the most boring place we had stayed. The people in the office seemed to be already done for the season as no one tried very hard to be friendly. In fact it motivated me to find another place to stay. That and the fact they were closing and we had to move on the thirty first.

With Halloween approaching the kids were excited to get dressed up. I told them we were on a budget and there would be a prize for the most cost effective costume. With absolutely zero enthusiasm for my contest we headed to a thrift store. We knew the kids were missing their friends back home so we wanted to provide some normalcy through our tradition of “trick or treating’. We looked for somewhere to spend the holiday. Unfortunately, our first choice, Salem was out of the question as it was too far away, packed with people making the pilgrimage  for Halloween and we were unable to find a place to stay. We discovered the nearby town of Plymouth offered an evening of trick or treating at the shops along the main street the day before Halloween.

Plymouth was close by and we got there early to see the famous rock and nearby points of interest.  As we were having a late lunch on the main street some very little trick or treaters came in the restaurant. Our kids were thinking this was going to be a bust as it looked like the event was set up for little kids. As the evening wore on the crowds grew and the streets filled with costumes. The kids changed in the parking lot and joined the festivities. We had some surreal moments throughout the evening as we stood in front of a building that had once been foreclosed on by the note holder John Hancock and especially taking pictures in costume in front of Plymouth Rock.

 

11.2.15 Mass, RI 118

It was great to see all the people who went all in with their costumes. The kids had a fantastic afternoon and we took in the sunset over looking the harbor and a replica of the Mayflower.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 134

With all the campgrounds closing it felt like Massachusetts was kicking us out. Since Pinewood closed on Halloween, we headed an hour away to an RV Resort called Normandy Farms. This place was packed for the holiday weekend. They were so full, the only option available was to park on a grass field for fifty bucks a night. With persistence and charm we upgraded to our own site but with no hookups so it was still just an expensive place to park. However the kids loved this place. Well-manicured grounds and an organized, friendly staff they justify their “resort” pricing with a wealth of amenities. Indoor pool, jacuzzi’s, BMX track, Frisbee golf course, fishing pond and dog park to name a few, made it the resort with everything. We were told, families have been coming here for several generations and they offer all kinds of activities surrounding the Halloween weekend.  Despite all the activities on offer the kids opted to hit a local neighborhood to trick or treat… again.

We headed out towards some nice neighborhoods we had passed on the way into the campground. Not knowing the area we pulled into a dead end street with nice looking homes. It was a bit early and still nothing happening. We pulled over to ask a family who were taking pictures of their infant dressed as a bumblebee where we should go. They directed us to what they called, “The Neighborhood”.

We hit pay dirt, ending up in a quintessential New England neighborhood flush with Trick or Treaters. Large homes on large lots, of traditional New England architecture and cloaked in decorations. There were literally thousands of people walking around. Throughout the night we experienced friendly New Englanders displaying true hospitality and generosity.

A few kids thought they recognized our children. When they realized they didn’t they asked where we were from? When we replied, “California”, they all thought we were joking. We even had one woman pour Laurel and I wine to warm us up as we walked around. It was a memorable night in an idyllic setting.

Once passed the holiday we knew we had to move south. With nowhere affordable left to camp in Massachusetts and impending cold weather, I was disappointed to leave without visiting all of the places we had wanted to stop. Even the ferries to Martha’s Vineyard and the outer islands had long since stopped running. Staying with our mantra to keep a step ahead of Old Man Winter, it was time to head south.

11.2.15 Mass, RI 142
This local couldn’t out run the gun.

Acadia National Park

 

Having never traveled along the Eastern seaboard above New York City it was our mission to get as far up the coast as possible before winter set in. Acadia National Park in the state of Maine was our destination. A days drive from New Hampshire in the Windryder.  The lure of fresh New England lobster, Bar Harbor, or as the locals call it (Baah Haabah), connecting with our New Zealand friends and exploring Acadia National Park were before us. We could hardly wait to arrive.

Leaving New Hampshire we started off through the Presidential Range in the White Mountain National Forest. Surrounded by the colorful and vibrant landscape we drove through an open valley with a choke hold at the south east end marking the summit before our gradual descent through a canyon passing through several small ski towns as we eventually crossed into Maine.

We received a call from our New Zealand friends. They were arriving in the Bar Harbor area before us and were scouting out places to stay. With State Park campgrounds closed and few private camping options available they found Smugglers Den campground in the South Harbor area of the park. They reserved a site for us next to theirs and let us know the campground would be closing in a few days, so again we got lucky.

When planning a drive in the Windryder, it takes a lot longer than any map app may indicate. Many miles of road lay before us as the day changed to night. Turning off the ninety-five, the main North to South artery, we experienced one of the roughest patches of roads of the trip. Visibility was poor, rain began to fall and we had to merge across several lanes to continue on our route. The further we moved through the merge the more rough the road became. Traveling the speed limit I could not slow down fast enough to smooth out the ride. The tires were losing contact with the road. The Windryder felt like an airplane landing when the engines reverse and all the overhead bins shake and rattle. The more I tried to slow down the rougher the ride became. Just as I felt it couldn’t get any worse it finally smoothed out as we completed the merge. It took me another couple of miles to catch my breath and loosen my grip on the steering wheel. I was hoping the final hour of driving would be easy but the light rain, narrow, hilly two lane road and blinding lights from oncoming traffic made it anything but easy. I stopped several times to clean the windshield in hopes of improving our visibility. While it was still early in the evening the final hour’s drive seemed like three.

Acadia National Park 153

We finally pulled into Smugglers Den to find our site next to the New Zealand family.  We arrived to a warm reception including a pot of homemade chicken soup, cold beer and a big welcome from our Kiwi friends. Our kids were super excited to see each other and we were all stoked to connect again. The little ones were immediately out and about playing in the dark while Laurel and I were left alone to settle in.

Acadia National Park 149

The private campground was nearly empty as the season was about to close. We were one of eight or ten campers so again we had the facilities almost completely to ourselves. With a large field across from our site and a playground full of fun equipment for all ages the kids and dog were free to run amok.

IMG_9681
Our buddy Will feeling zen in the playground.

The following day held the promise of exploration with the New Zealanders in the afternoon as we stayed put in the morning to complete school work. Once the kids were finished we all headed to Bass Harbor on the southern side of Acadia, home to one of the area’s oldest working lighthouses.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 287

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 283New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 290New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 303

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 301
Parker, Will & Kyra.

The drive was beautiful taking us along a narrow and winding two lane road passing by the fishing village of South Harbor.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 372The colorful forests grow down to the granite laden coastline with countless buoy’s marking a plethora of lobster traps just offshore.

The weather was cool and clear and we were fortunate to have such unseasonably warm temperatures this time of year. Although, with everything being “Closed for the Season”, you would think it was already freezing weather. Come to find out most seasonal businesses shut down in the end of September and early October. Here we were, third week of October enjoying sunny days with temps reaching the high fifties. The weather can change quickly and the consequences of freezing plumbing are all too familiar here.

After a couple of hikes and playing in “Wonder Land”,

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 310

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 329

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 318
Feeling wonderful in Wonder Land.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 370

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 364
Localcritter
New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 324
Enjoying the moment with our friends from New Zealand.
New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 312
Rolling out the red carpet.

we headed to South Harbor to have dinner at one of the few lobster houses still open this late in the season.  I have wanted to visit this area ever since I worked with a nine finger carpenter from New England back in 1997. I loved hearing him describe the area in his thick Maine accent. Especially when he would say, “You know, we New Englanders love seafood so much, our stomachs rise and fall with the tide”.  In my best tribute, “When in Maine, go to Baah Haa-bah and have yah-self some Laahb-sta’. We were ready to partake Especially Hudson, our littlest Kiwi friend.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 393
Hudson is all in and ready for dinner.
New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 400
When in Maine!

We shared a wonderful lobster dinner with great company in a location I will remember forever as the setting sun painted the sky over South Harbor.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 402
No Photoshop for this South Harbor sunset.

The kids had a great time and enjoyed the evening as much as we did.

Acadia National Park

Acadia National Park was the first National Park east of the Mississippi. The park has a diverse mix of rocky coastlines, lakes and ponds, forests and meadows as well as granite mountains. Throughout the park there is an extensive network of carriage roads with over forty stone bridges. Every bridge has a different design. They are closed to vehicle traffic but host biking, horses, horse drawn carriages and hikers. John D. Rockefeller Jr. donated over eleven thousand acres of land including the bridges and carriage roads. The work to build the Carriage roads  was carried out by the Civilian Conservation Corps beginning in 1933. There have been countless other donors and preservationists who have contributed to the park. Most notably George B. Dorr known as the founding father of the park along with Charles W. Elliott.  It comprises nearly fifty thousand acres of public and private land. Much of the private land offers easements so the public can enjoy it all.

There is much to see and do here. Our friend Greg Wood provided much information based upon his visits here which helped us prioritize the places to see in our short stay. You can check out his traveling exploits on his blog at www.wgwood.blogspot.com.

We picked off a few of the iconic landmarks to check out. Cadillac Mountain, Sand Beach, Bar Harbor and Jordan Pond along with a couple carriage road loops. We were still in school mode and had to complete our schoolwork so we could take in the sights.

We decided to split our school work up for the day and head to Cadillac Mountain with the Kiwi family. Cadillac Mountain is the highest point along the Atlantic coast. The road emerges from a colorful forest speckled with pines to an exposed granite peak at the top offering views in every direction.

Acadia National Park 010

Acadia National Park 016
Northern view from Cadillac Mountain

We lucked out arriving to a mostly clear day with chilly temperatures. After checking out the views and hiking around we decided on an exciting descent. With little tourist traffic the dads and my oldest son Gavin opted to ride our bikes down the road from the top.

Acadia National Park 021

Acadia National Park 027
Cadillac downhill

Acadia National Park 018

While it is under four miles long we were stoked to have the opportunity. The narrow two lane road gets exciting with a handful of hair pin turns which get the adrenaline going. I opted for gloves while Gavin went bare knuckle. At the bottom, he could barely open his hands until they thawed out. It was definitely a fun ride. We were told by a ranger that we lucked out to ride down since the road is closed in the winter and the summer crowds often make too congested.

Since the temperatures dropped we headed into Bar Harbor to get some coffee and explore. Bar Harbor reminded me of a spot closer to home with its souvenir shops, ice cream stands and little restaurants.

Acadia National Park 133
Bar Harbor treat shop.

Like Balboa Island, it was a bit touristy. Not sure what I was expecting. After we got our coffees we walked around ending up at the park square in the middle of town where we hung out while the kids ran around getting their yah, yah’s out.

On the way back to the campground we headed down some roads less traveled to experience the area from a more local perspective.

Acadia National Park 147Acadia National Park 144Acadia National Park 136We found much forested land, many lakes and ponds.  With classic New England architecture at every turn we loved checking out the variety of homes from small cottages to sprawling estates.

Once back at the campsite the dads broke away for a short bike ride through the forest, blueberry fields and along a beautiful lake.

That evening the families prepared a meal together and enjoyed another night to remember. After dinner, all the kids went outside and played in the dark while we opened another bottle of wine. Our friends shared handmade, maple syrup infused chocolates their friend from Vermont had made. Such a special treat and crazy delicious!

Next day was a combo of schoolwork and a bike ride on an eight mile Carriage road loop.

Acadia National Park 051Acadia National Park 097Acadia National Park 110

Acadia National Park 054
Salute at the summit

Acadia National Park 043

 

The ride was a challenge for the kids and seemed to take longer than anyone had expected. We had split the ride up in the middle with a rest at the north east end of Eagle Lake.

Acadia National Park 091Acadia National Park 035Acadia National Park 070

Acadia National Park 067We refueled with snacks we brought while the kids explored the shoreline. We had a visit with some horses before starting on the uphill portion of the loop. At one point during the second half of the ride I remember carrying our youngest son Parker’s bike on my handlebars as I rode and he walked alongside. My Kiwi buddy was carrying his middle son’s bike and his youngest son in a seat on the handlebars. Even the girls were a bit taxed. However, with everyone’s sense of renewed energy at the top of the hill they all got back on their bikes and finished the loop ultimately enjoying their accomplishment.

Acadia National Park 033
Parker stoked to finish the ride celebrating not being last.

That night the families split up to make dinner on their own but the kids never stopped. Well into the evening they played a night version of Hide n’ Seek with flashlights called, “Spotlight”.  Even the kids who were scared of the dark stayed out playing in the pitch black night.

With the closing day of the campground upon us we requested, well maybe pleaded with the owner to allow us to stay a couple more days.  He gave us the okay. We were ecstatic knowing we had another full day to take in Acadia so we could tackle the famed Beehive Trail hike on the north side of the park.Maine Acadia National Park 013Maine Acadia National Park 084

Beehive trail starts from the car park of Sand Beach where we lunched and played in the sand prior to the hike.

Maine Acadia National Park 058
Sand taggers

Maine Acadia National Park 061The trail heads up through an avalanche field of granite rocks speckled with aspens and pine ultimately leading to the base of a steep granite cliff.

 

Maine Acadia National Park 019.JPG

The trail is equipped with strategically placed metal ladders and hand holds anchored into the rock to assist with the more critical spots. Once we reached the top of the avalanche field we ignored the sign warning against bringing pets and children only to discover a short while later it was posted for good reason. There were too many “no fall” zones to safely navigate the trail with the kids.

Maine Acadia National Park 041.JPG
Gavin crossing a ladder with consequences for any mistake. Yes, that’s Hudson on his dad’s back.
Maine Acadia National Park 032
The views are inspiring.

IMG_9726

The fall colors never let up. I had spoken with several locals from the Adirondacks to Maine that all had similar stories about the fall colors. Not in thirty years had they seen the colors this vibrant,  stick around so long or the leaves turn so late in the season. Thankful and awestruck were we to witness such natural beauty.

We went as far as we deemed safe and turned around but not before witnessing some amazing views of this most beautiful place. We all vowed to come back one day and tackle this famed hike.

Maine Acadia National Park 035.JPG

From Beehive trail we drove the famed Park Loop road along the ocean stopping at the Blow Hole.

Maine Acadia National Park 091.JPG

Maine Acadia National Park 101
The Blow hole looking not so blowy

When we arrived a couple tour buses showed up making the viewing platform instantly crowded. We hiked around the rocks while the tour thinned out. Since there wasn’t much surf the Blow Hole was really just a niche in the shoreline. However when the surf is pumping the water enters a narrow section of rock forcing it skyward into a dramatic eruption. We witnessed no such drama.

So we headed to Jordan Pond where there is a visitor’s center and a carriage house built in the early 1900’s marking the head of a carriage road.

Maine Acadia National Park 114
Jordan Pond
Maine Acadia National Park 115
Hangin out
Maine Acadia National Park 118
Jordan Pond Gate Lodge marking the Jordan Pond carriage road gate built in 1932 remains occupied today.
Maine Acadia National Park 123
Carriage road gate connected to Jordan Pond Lodge

The Lodges through out the park that were designed to ornament the carriage road system. The gates serve as symbolic barriers to automobiles and welcome the traveler into a motor-free system of carriage roads in the heart of Acadia National Park.

We toured the visitor’s center, soaked in the landscape, picked apples off trees and took many pictures as we were saying goodbye to this end of the park.

IMG_9735

Another night spent with the kids playing Spotlight and laughing with our New Zealand friends gave way to a morning of saying our goodbyes again pledging to reconnect in Raleigh, North Carolina around Thanksgiving. That morning we headed south primarily because the campgrounds were all closed. The promise of above freezing temperatures in the foreseeable future made us wish we could stay longer as there was so much more left to experience.

Moose River & The Apple Hill Gang

The weekend promised the coldest temps of the trip dipping into the teens and twenties. We wanted a campground with electricity to get through the cold snap. After a trip over one of the roughest roads we had experienced and deep in moose country we arrived in the dark at Moose River campground.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 013
Freeway close.
New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 015
No moose have been spotted in this valley in over a decade.

Located in a small valley just a few miles from the New Hampshire border. We only had a couple nights here as they were closing for the season. Moose River is a private campground owned and operated by the same couple for the last eighteen years. Located in a small valley the setting was picturesque and the facilities were definitely “Charming”, meaning “old”.  There was room for improvement to the facilities as the shower house was not insulated and small. Along the way I have learned to be grateful for a good shower facility and blessed with a great one. Many tend to be adequate. Moose river falls into this category. Evidently their reason for not making any improvements to the property is due in large part to the tax consequences of adding any additional square footage. So they made the original 1950’s buildings as nice as they could, meaning new paint and shower curtains. After speaking with both owners on separate occasions I realized they were running a total sham as they told me there has not been a moose spotted in the immediate area in over a decade. And you call this place moose river? Well I never! All kidding aside, they were nice enough and the campground was nearly vacant. Plus we were happy to have a budget friendly spot to park it for the cold snap. It got cold snowing over night.

 

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 009

 

After a few days here waiting out the coldest weekend of the fall, we knew it was time to go as they had shut the water off due to freezing pipes and they were closing for the season. With temperatures warming up and a ton of schoolwork to do we headed just over the border to Bethlehem, New Hampshire and stayed at Apple Hill campground.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 197

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 201

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 198
Searching for the Sugar Hill Gang on Acassiz Street.

Bethlehem is a small town with the municipal building, police and fire department, library and post office and only coffee house within a half block of each other.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 206
Bethlehem celebrating their character.  

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 214

Apple Hill is another private campground with no improvements since the seventies and I use the word improvements loosely. They stay open year round catering to many full time residents and people coming up to ski and snowmobile nearby. The price was right for full hookups and was beautifully set in a dense forest of maple, alder and pine trees. It was difficult to read the vibe as it had many full time and seasonal trailers with very few rules for how people to maintain their campsite. It was not uncommon to see a carport constructed of two by fours and plastic sheeting.  I was reluctant to take pictures of the local residences as it seemed it could be grounds for getting shot. While heading to our campsite to settle in I had to wait for a guy to move his truck and trailer out of the road. The truck was idling with no one around so I got out to see how long they were going to be. As the fellow came out of his trailer he was friendly and offered much information about the safety of the campground, it’s residents and owners. He settled any hesitation I had of this backwoods location with backwoods residents. We always listen to our inner voice and bug out if we get a bad vibe from any location. While I didn’t get a bad vibe from the place it certainly had it’s own back woods personality. Think Deliverance without the theme song, just total quiet.

Operated by the same family for the last twenty seven years, they looked like they put just enough time, money and energy into the place to keep it going, nothing more. The family was nice and left us alone unless we needed anything. We hunkered down to get schoolwork done and grades turned in. The temps were coming out of the twenties as it started warming up over the next few days.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 061
Apple Hill Campground

New Hampshire offers beautiful country and I was itching to get out on another significant hike with the family. Due to our school work load, it took three days of focused schoolwork before I was able to sneak away early one morning and go on a solo hike. I received info of a nearby trail from the owner of the local coffee house. At first light I headed to a nearby peak with our dog Charlie for a short, steep and vigorous hike.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 045
Charlie leading the way.

Only a mile from the campground, I followed the coffee house owners directions and parked on the road in front of a couple very old wood shacks and walked up the dirt road between them. I tried to be quiet as it was obvious people lived here and it was early. There was a sign giving the okay to hikers to pass through their property only a few feet from their front door. The path turned steep quickly and was a dirt road blanketed with pine needles and fall leaves. As I headed up, I continually made my presence known as this is bear and moose country. A wild life encounter with my full cup of coffee in one hand and and leashed dog in the other would be interesting I’m sure. The road twisted up the mountain every so often intersecting a path of power lines overhead.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 023

 

 

 

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 138New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 040

I reached the top to find an acre sized summit crowded with a fenced off section of radio antennas, an old three story building that seemed part observatory, part command post and part residence and a camper with pine trees painted on the side in an effort to have the white corrugated siding blend into the forest.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 032My curiosity of the setting didn’t have to wait long as there was a sign posted describing the property. For over one hundred years the facility had once been a popular tourist destination charging people to come to the top to experience the Eastern view which was expansive and remarkably beautiful with the fall colors. Twenty five years ago the new owner opened the road up to the public for free. As I made my way around the building and directly through the front yard the landscape opened up to a remarkable vista.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 031New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 034You could literally see for miles and miles and miles, oh yeah! A little “The Who” reference there for those of you still awake. The view was expansive and center stage was the White Mountains and Franconia Notch State Park home to the Flume Gorge hike I wanted to share with the family. The morning light was not what I had hoped for picture taking but I drank in the view and breathed in its enormity, thankful for this moment of solitude. Just the dog and I.

While the sign on the structure alluded to a vacant property there were tomato vines growing just inside a bank of south facing windows at ground level indicating I was most likely not alone on top of this mountain. As I made my way back down the path I thought about all the people who had made this very same hike and looked out at the same vista knowing that each one experienced it differently in their own way just as I had. Every now and again I shouted “hey bear” just to make sure I didn’t have any close encounters. I would have preferred to allow Charlie to run off the leash but the coffee house owner recommended him tethered just in case I ran into any property owners.

I arrived back at the campground to Laurel and the kids just waking up. The kids had most of their homework finished but Laurel was under the gun to get grades turned in. Since I have figured out a way to get out of that part of home schooling she sent the kids and I to Franconia Notch State Park located in the White Mountain range, to hike up the Flume Gorge.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 081

Franconia Notch State Park has been a wilderness destination since the late 1800’s. At the visitor’s center, information outlines a history of preservationists and opportunists who have supported and exploited the area. The Flume Gorge is a deep and narrow passage carved through granite and stone. There is a wooden pathway suspended along the sides and during heavy storms the Gorge fills with a torrent of water making the pathway impassable on foot.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 110New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 104New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 097

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 102
Heavy winters make this section impassable.

Franconia State Park hosts miles of hiking and biking trails in every direction. The Flume Gorge path is a three and a half mile loop weaving along the base of Mount Liberty and Mt Osceola through colorful forests and covered bridges.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 089 My favorite covered bridge is built on top of a tree that fell across a gorge after it was struck by lightning bridging the gap fifty feet above the stream.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 154New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 158

Investigating a narrow passage called Wolves den they prodded me until I shimmied through the narrow passage and out the top.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 166
Entering the Wolves Den
New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 172
Kyra waiting for Parker to emerge
New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 169
I think that was fun.

On the way into the park, a ranger had let us know he had passed a bear earlier that morning. He reminded the kids to look all around, even upwards to take in all that the park had to offer. Despite my interest in seeing a bear I think the kids were too noisy with excitement on the hike for any wild creature to stick around.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 182Birds and squirrels were the only animals brave enough to get near the kids. There were also two older couples visiting from Louisiana that had no fear of the kids and engaged them while we all looked across the colorful landscape from a viewpoint high on the mountain.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 141
The view South West.

They had made the trip to view the fall colors and like us were in complete awe of the natural beauty. The hike had enough vertical terrain and distance to tire the kids out. So it was back to the campground to give Laurel a break from grading papers.

While settling back in I struck up conversation with a fellow camper named Joe who turned out to be from the area. A former Marine, he stood five foot, eight with the stature of a boxer and a distinctive New England accent. Turned out he had boxed in the Marine Corps. Recently retired he and his girlfriend had rented out their house nearby and were full timing it in their RV. Joe had spent his thirty year career driving logging trucks in the mountains of Vermont and New Hampshire. He was a “tough as nails” sort of guy but kind as they come. During his logging career, he had twelve rollover accidents in fully loaded trucks due to icy logging roads. I suggested he is lucky to be alive. He agreed but seemed to shrug it off as just being a job hazard. He said he knew of other drivers that were not so lucky. His history of surviving these potentially deadly accidents just seemed to solidify his tough persona.

Through our conversations Joe offered insight into the local area, the economy and the state of New Hampshire. Each time I was outside I had hoped he would be around as he was easy to talk to and I enjoyed hearing about his life’s journey and knowledge of the area. He has three sons all of which he put through collage and professed it was an utter waste of his money as not one of them is pursuing their major. He felt as though college for his kids was just Dad paying their way to party for four years. Since each kid he described seemed to be productive and financially stable in their life I reassured him that he had made a commendable investment in their future. Coming from the poverty stricken area it was no small feat this man put his three sons through college.

I had not seen Joe for a couple days, turns out he had put together a family reunion down at the cape in Massachusetts. He had arranged for his entire family to be present as he had a plane fly a banner across the beach asking his girlfriend of eight years to marry him. He told me all about his weekend as if I was the buddy who couldn’t make it to the event. Knowing we were leaving in the morning he offered words encouragement reassuring me this journey we were on was a great thing. As we departed, I couldn’t help but reflect on the time I had spent getting to know this character. I will always appreciate the honest connection I had experienced.

As we headed east we were treated to a beautiful road winding through colorful forests and small ski towns.

New Hampdhire, Maine 10.23.15 227

Destination, Acadia National Park in Maine. We were in touch with our New Zealand friends. They were arriving in the area earlier in the day and were scouting out places to camp.