Dry Tortugas National Park

Robbed of sleep by pure excitement, I struggled to make out the time through the glow of my iPhone’s lock screen. A familiar restlessness from such nights spent listening to a swell building in the darkness knowing you will be out for a surf at first light. Or nights spent in the mountains peeking out the window at the closest street light to see how hard it’s snowing, hoping for fresh tracks in mornings new blanket of powder.

3:46 AM and only a couple more hours until departure for the Dry Trotugas National Park. The Dry Tortugas are the southern-most national park in the United States located on a small group of islands seventy miles below Key West. I had read about them early on in my research for our trip while looking for a campground in the Florida Keys. It was a place I knew we should visit. Further confirmed by half a dozen seasonal campers in our campground who let us know it was a must when visiting the lower keys or Key West. In fact every person I asked about the Dry Tortugas said the same thing, “You gotta go”.

Weather had been consistently windy and rainy. With ten days left in the Keys I was hoping for a break in the weather for the trip. Using all the weather forecast tools at my disposal I chose the best looking day out of the next two weeks and made reservations aboard the ferry. The Yankee Freedom III is a one hundred ten foot, high speed, all aluminum catamaran. With a two hundred fifty passenger capacity, indoor/ outdoor seating, she offers a comfortable ride.

We lucked out as smooth turquoise seas and soft winds laid before us pulling out of Key West.

The Catamaran cut through the crystal clear waters offering a smooth ride in the early morning.

The bottom depth varies from ten to fifty feet on average. Water clarity is beautiful offering a view of the bottom almost the entire trip. Abundant sea life gave us glimpses of sea turtles and flying fish.

Two hours and fifteen minutes later we were alone with one hundred sixty-eight strangers on Garden Key, home to Fort Jefferson. We passed several atolls as we pulled around the island to the main dock. We were at the front of the line to depart the ship and made haste to get on land, pick a spot to set our belongings and explore the island.

Fort Jefferson was built in between 1846 and 1875 to protect one of the most strategic deep water anchorages in North America. This provided an advance post for the United States to patrol the Gulf of Mexico and the Straits of Florida. Fort Jefferson was one of the largest forts ever built. Nearly thirty years to construct, using over thirty million bricks Fort Jefferson was never finished nor fully armed. Yet it was a link in a chain of coastal forts that stretched from main to California. During the Civil War, Union warships used the harbor in their campaign to blockade southern shipping. The fort was also used as a prison, mostly for Union deserters.  Housing its most famous prisoner Dr. Samual Mudd, the physician who set the broken leg of John Wilkes Booth. Though used briefly in both world wars the fort was ultimately abandoned by the Army in 1874.

Today Fort Jefferson is protected by the National Parks and is currently undergoing preservation efforts. The park service is stabilizing and restoring the nineteenth century masonry structure for future generations to enjoy.

While the fort is the primary landmark here the real jewel is the location. The pristine waters here are within reach of the third largest barrier reef in the world. Warm and clear, it’s perfect for snorkeling and diving.

Our time here was too brief and we knew that like many other places we have visited, vowed to return.

With some planning you are able camp on the island. You must pack in and pack out everything including food and water as this is a very remote and isolated location. In the event of an injury you are on your own. I spoke with a couple of people who had spent the night and they said, “when the ferry pulls away from the dock,  that’s when you feel truly isolated”. There are a few park rangers who live on the island full time but you are on your own. Once everyone leaves the island it y becomes your own and the real bonus is the sky full of stars free from any light pollution.  Camping overnight here remains on our bucket list.

Dry Tortugas National Park

Yankee Freedom III

Early January gave way to some epic hot and sunny days. Between school work we tried to get out and take advantage of every one.

We took our boat to Money Key just a few miles north of our campsite near the Seven Mile Bridge. Keeping up with it’s namesake Gavin found a quarter less than five minutes from stepping foot on the island.

The water was super clear, perfect for snorkeling and searching for Conchs.

We took our bikes to the north side of the Seven Mile Bridge and rode along the old section of the first Seven Mile Bridge to Pigeon Key. Pigeon Key housed many of the workers who constructed the first bridge which supported a train track and now offers tours. We opted for the self guided ride.

It was around nine o’clock and hot. The five mile ride seemed longer in the tropical heat. If only there was surf here to help us cool off.

There are several structures on Pigeon key but only a couple people live full time on the island.

We were treated to a perfect view of three Spotted Eagle Rays riding the current flowing under the bridge.

Turn around and head back.

Key West

Hard to believe, but it took us three and a half weeks before we made our first of several trips to Key West. Although the drive is less than forty miles from our campsite we were too busy making the most of our time on on Sunshine Key to make the trek until now.

Seeing pictures of this spot from time to time through out my life, it was a bit surreal to be standing here with my family.

We parked a couple of spots away from ground zero marking the East coast’s Highway 1.

This beautiful house caught my eye when we first drove into town. We would later find out it was previously owned by Calvin Klein.

Key West has a colorful history and while we try to stay away from touristy attractions, a ride on the Conch Train provided great insight into the goings on of this southern most spot. The Conch Train’s conductor weaves through the streets of Key West narrating the history of it’s colorful people, politics, history and landmarks.

Back at Sunshine Key

Even though it was mid January, back at Sunshine Key we hung Christmas lights on Bungalow number one in anticipation of our friends arrival from California. Close friends from our neighborhood back home were making the trip to see us and hang in the Keys for a week. They reserved a bungalow on the water next to the fishing pier.  Our kids could barely contain their excitement as their two boys are our boys best friends. On top of that we had family consisting of Uncle Mike and Grandpa Pete coming in at the same time. We felt so lucky and appreciated so much everyone making such a long journey to see us.

As much as we hoped for a solid week of sunny weather for our company we were delivered a number of rainy days during their visit. It poured the first night so we hunkered down in our coach, made dinner and the men played poker wearing funny hats while the kids played games and the wives caught up.

We lucked out with a break in the weather so we headed down to Bahia Honda State Park.

Our friends had a list of things they wanted to do and we didn’t let any foul weather stand in the way.

Heading back to Sunshine in our small boat we beckoned the incoming foul weather to hold off. We laughed in the face of the impending storm.

We were back in the safety of our coach before the skies opened up. Mother nature always wins.

The following day gave way to an opening in the weather so we headed back to Key West with the whole crew.

Conch Train Tour for everyone while Laurel and I snuck away to a local watering hole.

Hemingway’s House

Hemingway’s house is a must see. His history career and history in Key West are legendary.

Our tour guide along with one of the resident six toed cats. Hemingway was fond of the creatures and had dozens living on the property during his life here.

Hemingway’s studio which sits separate from the main house had  it’s own private second floor entrance.

The boys and one of the many resident six toed cats.

The girls dancing with some local color

This lady is really tiny.

Best buds

Looking way too comfortable in Sloppy Joes

Awe, we love these two.

Goofing off on the streets of Key West

We headed to the beach as the storm continued to move in to find SURF!!! I spoke with a local who said it gets like that once every, like…TEN YEARS.

The Conch Republic

The following day the weather cooperated so we piled in the boat and all headed to The Conch Republic next to Sunshine Key. Since we all couldn’t fit in the boat I shuttled everyone back and forth.

The following day our friends headed back to California. So sad to see them go as the visit was too short. We were so grateful for the time together and appreciate all the energy that went into making the trip.

We still had a couple of days with Uncle Mike and Papa Pete so we headed up to Isla Morada to check out a house Pete once owned, have lunch and visit Cheeca Lodge.

Pete’s old house is behind all the greenery. With eighteen inch cinder block walls, it was designed to withstand hurricanes.

Cheeca Lodge was the childhood playground for my wife and her cousins during their visits to the Keys.

It was fully remodeled in 2008 and hosts such distinguished visitors as George W. Bush and actor/musician Steve Martin.

After a tour of Cheeca Lodge we headed to a local lunch spot and continued to enjoy family time over local fare.

Parker lovin his lunch.

Thank you again to our family and friends for making the trip. It was great to spend time with everyone and we appreciate deeply your efforts to make it happen.

As parents we were looking forward to experiencing a very different Holiday season void of the typical hustle and bustle. We had prepared the kids for a scaled down Christmas and with mild skepticism the seemed excited. Many of the campsites were decorated for the Holidays which helped fuel our Christmas spirit despite the warm weather. I was stoked to light up a single palm tree to guide Santa’s sleigh.

We purchased a small artificial tree and made all of the ornaments from sea shells and found objects.

Christmas Day proved epic as the weather was perfect, the kids were pleased with a different holiday experience and there were no set plans. So the boys opted for a day on the boat while the girls hung out at the pool.

The Milburn Boys

G Boys 3

No worries sort of Day

Max holding a lethal jelly

It was a pinch yourself sort of day filled with sun, sea and discovery.

Everyone came together over the sounds of Redhead Express, a tight and talented family rockin a cool country sound.

The kids Hangin with the very talented Amond from the Redhead Express.

The kids were loving the weeks between Christmas and New Years as there were kids all over the place. They would leave early in the morning and be full throttle until ten every night.

The New Years Crew

Sadly, after New Years all of those kids went home and ours were back at their studies while they waited for their west coast friends and family to arrive in January.

More quiet days gave way to breezy nights illuminated by the glory of the full moons glow.

The holidays would be extra special as we were expecting family and friends from the west coast coming for a visit.

On the way down the east coast of Florida this west coast surfer was hoping to sample some of the better known breaks. However, the weather and surf weren’t cooperating. Plus the family had been relentlessly chanting, “Sunshine Key”! Even the dog was wanting to move on since the locals weren’t so into him.

There were a couple reminders of the surf spots along the roadway requiring focus to miss the exits.

Home of the Champ Kelly Slater

I’ve heard it gets good.

Heading south, the 95 freeway is littered with East Coast surf shop billboards.

Our last campsite before the final leg to Sunshine Key.

West Palm Beach

Bedners Farm. The parking lot would be our last overnight campsite before our final leg to Sunshine Key.

Squawking parrots seemed to be the perfect alarm clock for our travel day into Jimmy Buffet territory. The flock was flying from tree to tree around our parking lot campsite at Bedner’s Farm in West Palm Beach.

For the last twenty-two years my wife has been suggesting we go to a warm place during our winter holiday. However, my love of skiing and the mountains have landed us in the snow every winter. I thought I would make it up to her by booking two months in the Florida Keys to wait out the coldest months of the year.

Sunshine Key was waiting for us, but once we left the mainland our travel day was filled with very little sunshine. Rain would be the order for our stay in the Keys as locals continued to tell us it was the most wet and windy winter they had in the last twenty-five years. It’s all relative as the wettest and windiest day in the Keys seemed far better weather than the rest of the country in December and January.

Entering Isla Morada

Seven Mile Bridge

Arriving to Sunshine Key on December Eighth we settled into a prime campsite near the water.

Sunshine Key Mile Marker 38

Our first of three campsites

We were greeted by the locals.

Manatees drink fresh water and have an uncanny ability to locate it often traveling many miles through the ocean to their next water source. This manatee would sip on dripping water from the dock for thirty minutes at a time.

And our first heart filling sunset.

Sunshine Key is located eight miles below the city of Marathon and just above Bahia Honda State Park. Or as the locals call it, Mile Marker 38.

It becomes a seasonal home to many folks escaping the cold of the northeast. There are roughly four hundred sites along with some cabanas and trailers they rent out nightly. Included in the facilities are a marina, clubhouse, cafe, tennis courts, beach, fishing pier, pool, bait & tackle shop and gas station. Along with weekly activities like Ice Cream Socials and water access for our paddle boards,  there was a lot to keep us busy.

Evidently Sunshine Key and Marina management had experience with a variety of plumbing issues.

However, school was still on order although the kids seemed happy to get their studies out of the way in the classroom of the open sky.

Parker and I did a bit of work along the shoreline to lessen it’s burden of garbage. In less than an hour we picked up over thirty gallons of trash. No coastline is immune to the effects of  man and we pick up trash regularly.

This place is less than a quarter mile from our campground and it’s called paradise beach. There was much more work to be done. It would be closer to paradise without the trash. This seemed completely unnecessary. While much of the trash made it in the cans there was a lot that missed. It left us wishing all humans would respect our beaches.

Cleaner shores at our go to spot at Sunshine Key, the fishing pier.

We took full advantage of the fishing pier often getting there before daylight and back at it until the sun went down. There were a few keepers here and there and good times always.

Excited to get our boat in the water, we found out perfect boating days were infrequent due to wind and rain. When the weather proved good for boating we dropped everything and hit the water.

The first opportunity we had we launched and went to Conch Republic, an island just east of our campground, small enough to walk around in fifteen minutes. With reef on one side and sand on the other it was a fun place to explore.

Conch Republic is where we met Bernie. Bernie, a retired high school teacher was in a skiff with two dogs.  He was the perfect example of a drunken sailor. He kept telling us we were lucky to run into him as he was going to let us know the best places to visit but never really did. He let his dogs run around the small island for a while before he started yelling for them to get in the boat. In a low, rolling growl he proceeded to yell, ,”MANGO, BOAT, NOW!” over and over. He must of yelled twenty times and it only became comical when he told us the dog is deaf. Now anytime we run across a mango fruit we think of Bernie and The Conch Republic.

A short boat ride away lies one of the most sought after campgrounds in Florida, Bahia Honda State Park. Hosting a small marina, off shore anchorage, camping, amazing beaches, beautiful water and the cheapest, best ice cream around. We made many a trip by land and sea to Bahia Honda.

Best Ice Cream Ever!

Fishing was a blast but I never seemed to have enough time on the water.

The weeks leading up to Christmas were filled with many hot tropical days and sunset filled evenings.

The campground was only a quarter full with most of the seasonal campers due to show up after Christmas. Besides Santa we had a lot to look forward to over the Holidays as we had family and friends coming to visit all the way from California.

We arrived after hours to a locked gate. With no reservations we were hoping to slide in and get a site. Someone had pulled up and was trying to unlock the gate so we waited, but after a few minutes with no luck they took off. I decided to give it a go however my multiple guesses at the combination didn’t work. I headed back to the coach and resumed my seat in the captains chair contemplating our next move when a fellow camper pulled up and yelled to us to follow him into the park. Past the holiday lights we followed him into the darkness to find a campsite.

More holiday decorations assured us the vibe was all good.

We found a spot and settled in for bed as it was late and we had school work to get done in the morning.

I was excited to be here as Myrtle Beach offered the first prospect of surf since we left California. I had been land locked and out of the water for the longest time. I was at the beach early to check out the prospects.

 Oh well, there’s always tomorrow.

Back at the site I made some coffee, hung out with the boys and dreamed about the next time I would surf.

Once we roused everyone we headed out through the park to explore.

The nature center was full of information. The animals here include Raccoons, squirrels, birds,  and snakes. Snakes, ewe, mostly Copperhead snakes and yes they are poisonous. The ranger assured us that they most likely wouldn’t be out yet due to the cool temperatures.When they do come out they have plenty of camouflage.

We stayed a few days as they were getting ready for Santa with a big weekend planned. We arrived early to see Santa on the beach but we were not the only ones with the great idea. The line to see Santa was long and all three kids opted out, so we checked out everything else.

Where is Santa?

Has anyone seen Santa?

It’s bright out.

It’s too bright out!

The picture taking ensued.

We scored with some nice weather however we were looking forward to getting to the warm temperatures of the Florida Keys.

They had camel rides, a bake sale, numerous projects and crafts. It reminded me of a little beach we go to over the holidays back home, minus the camel rides.

After a long morning we headed into town to run some errands and sight see. Every so often you run across massive stores here that dot the landscape. They are monoliths to overseas manufacturing with names like Whales, Surf City and Beaches which visually pollute the landscape.  There are so many it is hard to believe there is enough business to support them all.

We relish in the more obscure sights and attractions. Hurl Rocks Park was one of the kids favorites. A park that actually encourages you to be a kid.

We didn’t stop here but it’s nice to see the celebration of all species.

That evening back at the campground we ventured deeper into the park.

The first to make it out of the forest

The first to realize deep sand is not fun on the bike

Fellow campers with a very tidy campsite.

Myrtle Beach State Park got us in the Holiday Spirit as many campsites were decorated for the holidays. As much as we wanted to stay we had a campsite reserved in the Florida Keys and had a few more days to get there. Next Stop Saint Augustine, Florida.

Saint Augustine, Florida.                              Anastasia State Park. 

Over the draw bridge and past the Alligator farm is Anastasia State Park. A real gem in the Florida State Park system.

The long entrance road into the campground.

Caution, vicious wildlife here.

Cool trees

Fun to be had at every turn

Lots of space to roam

Saint Augustine is notable for vast, deserted beaches, the Fountain of Youth, a quaint pedestrian village and a waterfront Spanish Fort. I am sure there is much more but we only had a couple days to explore.

Our visit to the 1872 Spanish fort, Castillo de San Marcos coincided with our daughters studies so it was even more cool to walk around a place she had been reading about.

After bumming around the fort we walked across the street into the pedestrian village and had some dinner.

We passed this one up based upon the name alone.

We ended up eating at Pizza Time, the number two ranked pizza joint in the country according to TripAdvisor.

We took some time out to hang out with the owner. Can you say Italiano? All fueled up we explored the village for a while and headed back to camp to get an early start on a long drive day ahead. Saint Augustine will be the future destination for a long weekend as you can leave your car parked your entire stay.

It was December sixth and our reservation in the keys started on the eighth. With over four hundred miles to go we headed to a local farm in West Palm Beach the following day to break up the drive. We arrived thirty minutes before closing and were greeted by the manager who encouraged us to take our time. So we stocked up on fresh veggies and the first of many Key Lime pies to come.

Next stop, Sunshine Key.

Yes you read that right. After a uneventful drive from North Carolina’s Outer Banks we arrived at the Fairgrounds centrally located in Raleigh.

With over seven thousand miles traveled since September,  this proved to be the nicest reception we had received. We were directed to pull just inside the fairgrounds property from the main street and wait for our campground escort. The grounds were busy with a massive swap meet, a gun show, a horse event and the rival college football game between University North Carolina and North Carolina State. The football stadium is adjacent to the fairgrounds and contributes to the traffic.

Upon waiting for our escort we couldn’t help but notice the “No Gun Sales” sign in front of us. We thought this was obnoxious since they were offering “Free Crack” just inside  the swap meet.

Our armed escort arrived in his undercover jeep paying no attention to the crack in plain view. He beckoned us to follow escorting us a half a mile through the fairgrounds, past the equestrian center and football stadium to our full hook up site. He suggested we drive around and find the site we like and he would come back to check us in.

Something we missed on our packing checklist, inflatable hot tub. It wasn’t until a late foggy night when he fired up the jets that I realized that was a hot tub. I mean who would have thought to take a hot tub camping? But after a couple months on the road, you realize it’s genius!

We visited our family who took us to the local farmers market which is open year round. Among the boiled peanuts, fresh vegetables and baked goods we discovered a most peculiar item for sale.

We have family in Raleigh and so do our traveling friends from New Zealand. We were to see them before they left making their way back home via Nicaragua after their year long travel in the states.

Good Times! We miss our New Zealand friends.

Presenting dessert.

We miss our New Zealand friends. We had met them the third week of our adventure and had the good fortune of connecting several times over a couple months on the road. We are blessed to have spent time together in beautiful places, making life long memories. They are in New Zealand now settling back into a life that is forever changed by the adventures they had on their journey. Having another family on the road to share this adventure was a special part of our journey that will never be forgotten. We think of them often wondering how life is after their adventure and reminiscing of our time together. We stay in touch on-line and especially look forward to our paths crossing again one day.

After a wonderful home made dinner from my niece and a backyard bonfire, we headed back out to the coast to Washington, North Carolina to visit more family. A visit was long overdue with Uncle Bill. He is the definition of a Southern Gentlemen. Soft spoken, polite and extremely well read, he was editor in chief for two large publications in his career. He lives close to the water on a beautiful property and is soon to be remarried. In our short visit he shared much family history. Our visit was brief but such a highlight. We left with a deeper connection to our family and family roots.

Sad to say goodbye but thankful for our time together. Next stop Myrtle Beach State Park in South Carolina.

Maryland just outside of Washington DC Greenbelt Campground

Our drive from Pennsylvania delivered us in the darkness, “of course” to Greenbelt National Park’s D loop deep inside the park. Greenbelt is a large park in the corner of Maryland above DC offering many trails and day use areas. It is primitive camping at a low price. The entrance road to the campground winds through a thick forest for over a mile and a half providing guaranteed deer sightings. With only a half dozen campers in the park we found a site to accommodate the Windryder.

The third week of November gave us a nearly empty campground delivering cold nights, mild days and no rain or snow in the immediate forecast.

There was one other camper near us, an old guy from Washington state by the last name of Owens. He was a veteran helicopter pilot forced into retirement after thirty years of flying by an accident on the job. He worked primarily as a forest fire pilot after the military where he would scoop water into a large bucket under the helicopter and fly it over the fire where he would drop it to extinguish the flames.

He described his accident where his engine failed causing him to free fall into a shallow pond from some two hundred feet in the air. He said the last thing he remembers before waking up on the edge of the pond was the helicopter rotating over as if it were flipping upside down and all the windows blowing out as it crashed into the shallow pond while the rotor blades dug into the water and broke apart. He suffered extensive injuries and managed to get to the side of the pond where he waited another three hours before a rescue crew got to him and then another six hours until he would be in a hospital. He said his only regret was that he couldn’t pilot a chopper any longer. He was traveling around the country with his faithful dog while he still had his health to do so. He marveled at the fact I left work and were traveling the country as a family. I marveled at the fact he did something he loved for over thirty years and could no longer do it despite his desire to continue. I wish you well wherever you may be Mr. Owens.

The nightly camp fees were cheap but having Kyra’s braces repaired, replacing the house batteries in the coach and a trip to the beauty parlor took a bite out of our budget.

Before

After

Before

After

With anticipation of our first trip into DC in the morning we all had trouble getting  to sleep. Our New Zealand friends had visited here a couple weeks before and provided valuable information to economically take advantage of all Washington DC has to offer. The National Mall was but a short thirty minute drive from Greenbelt National Park. However the road system around the city is a bit confusing especially with Siri offering a different route with each visit.

Right around the corner from the Jefferson Memorial are several free parking areas. A ten minute bike ride takes you past the Jefferson Memorial, Bureau of Printing and Engraving and Washington Monument which then plants you in the middle of the National Mall with all DC has to offer.

The many views of the Jefferson Memorial

The great thing about not being pressed for time is having flexibility to visit the museums that are lest crowded. We started to walk across to the Smithsonian and before we could get there, three tour buses pulled up and created an instant log jam of people waiting to get in so we opted for the Natural History and walked right in.

                               We were reminded of our New Zealand friends.

DC is very bike friendly. This allowed us to go where ever we wanted with ease.

The Smithsonian Museum of American History

There is so much Americana to see here. Below are a few of my favorites. The wing displaying the First Lady’s dresses and Presidential memorabilia is definitely one of my favorites however it was to busy to get many good pictures.

Our days were filled with a mix of museums, monuments,war memorials and government buildings.

The statues are made of stainless steel and have a commanding presence.

We are proud that our children have a solid understanding of the price of our freedom. Being immersed in the city invigorated our pride in America and deepens our already deep appreciation of all of the fallen who have made the ultimate sacrifice for our country.

Bicycle transport made it easy to take in a couple museums, several memorials and a government building each day.

The Smithsonian Museum of Air and Space

We had visited the Wright Brothers last working bicycle shop at The Henry Ford Museum in Michigan where many of the tools they used to build Kitty Hawk were on disply

The Vehiclw that funded their passion of flight.

Apollo

We toured the Missile site in South Dakota where some of the Missile fields in South Dakota early in our travels.

Patriot Missile. This is the missile that can reach Russia in less than thirty minutes.

Despite our visits into DC there was still schoolwork to be done.

One of our favorites was the Lincoln Memorial. Our trip has been peppered with the history of Lincoln’s role in the growth of our country.

The Washington Monument seems to always be in view and I couldn’t help but snap off a few pics each time I would get a glimpse.

A few of my favorites.

Laurel was born in DC and grew up in nearby Annandale, Virginia prior to moving west. A trip to her idyllic childhood home was a must. We had last visited in 2007 when the owner welcomed us in for lemonade. When we arrived to show the kids it looked just as beautiful as the last time we visited. A knock on the door and low and behold the same owner remembered us, welcomed us in and gave a tour to the kids. It was a visit we will never forget. It was good to see the special place in my wife’s childhood memories being loved and lived in. The house was beautiful inside and out as the owners prepared for the Thanksgiving holiday.

With Thanksgiving approaching we were heading to Raleigh North Carolina to see some family and then onto the Outer Banks of North Carolina for the holiday and to keep ahead of the cold weather.

Pennsylvania is a big state chalked full of rolling hills and American History among many other points of interest. It’s also littered with deer which often times are viewed as a nuisance by locals as they frequently appear on the roadway. We were finding more campgrounds open here however not always near the places we wanted to visit as our points of interest were spread out.

We opened up the Pennsylvania border crossing with a twenty dollar toll from a toll booth attendant born in the same hospital in California as four out of five members of our family. What are the odds?

Our first stop was to see old friends in Newtown Square located around an hour’s drive south of Philadelphia where we attended a Friday night High School football game. We arrived early to a large campus with ample parking for our coach and chose our spot. It wasn’t long before the lot filled up and our friends knocked on our door. We were there primarily to watch our friend’s daughter cheer at the big game. She’s on the cheer squad and is what you call a “flyer”.

The person that is thrown into the air displaying grace and form with a big smile while relying on her team to deliver her safely back to the ground. It was great to see her skill and confidence through the routines. The cheer squad got the stands fired up while our kids had the run of the stadium.

With the game over we headed to a Walmart to spend the night. Not every Walmart will allow you to camp in their parking lot overnight so I always go in the store to ask permission from a manager.

As we pulled in the car park there was another camper in the far corner, a good sign. As we drove around to pick our spot the vibe started to reveal itself.  There were “No overnight parking” signs posted around the parameter of the lot. The other RV looked like the kitchen from Breaking Bad with four men loitering around it. With a few random characters roaming the parking lot and the strange late night clientele the vibe was increasing on the sketch meter.

I was tired and not up to driving anywhere else as Pennsylvania is spread out and everything seems to be a minimum half hour drive from everything else.  I went inside and spoke to the manager who told me they didn’t allow over-nighters but they would not call the authorities if we chose to stay. Emerging from the stores florescent glow we found two cops searching some guys car while they had him cuffed over the trunk. It kept getting better.

Stepping back into the coach we waited for the cops to finish to ask about staying. Laurel and the kids were feeling less than excited but I was too tired to drive anywhere. The cops said, “no problem” as they patrol the lot all night. We pulled into a spot in the middle of the car park and slept with one eye open.

The following evening we were treated to a great Philly style dinner with our friends.

Lots of laughs and catching up. The kids had a sleep over with her two kids while we retreated to their church parking lot a couple miles away. As we left her house there was a herd of deer grazing in her yard. They hung out until they got a whiff of our dog and then bolted into the cool darkness.

We had cleared our stay with a church elder earlier that evening who asked us to park the coach in a small lot behind the church. We climbed in, blasted the heater and fell fast asleep. We slept well knowing our kids were well taken care of and in the comfort of a home.

Morning came early as I was awoken from a deep sleep to a strange but familiar noise. I had heard it many times over as I drifted out of my slumber but awoke abruptly when I recognized the sound. It was Sunday and we were in a small church parking lot. Seven AM Mass had the lot filling up with parishioners. The familiar sound was car doors slamming shut. Before I could get to the window to look out I yelled at Laurel to wake up. I feared we were being surrounded by cars thus locking our large coach into the small lot for all three Sunday services. I was relieved to find out there were only a few cars in the lot with the majority parking on the road next to us. We got out of there quickly, parked at a nearby medical building and drove back to get the kids and have breakfast together. We were blessed beyond measure spoiled by our good friends.

Next stop, Valley Forge and Gettysburg. We have been loving our immersion in American History. I especially was excited to visit these most significant sites.

We arrived at Valley Forge on a Sunday afternoon and took to our bikes to explore. Bikes are definitely our preferred mode of transport. They present the opportunity to be totally immersed in your surroundings. The skies were clear and warm. We road many miles through the rolling hills discovering artifacts and learning about the harsh winter conditions endured here by General George Washington and his troops.

We toured George Washington’s quarters and with the help of the docents on site gained a rich understanding of life here and the events that transpired during the harsh winter of 1777.

Touring George Washington’s quarters, with the help of docents on site, gained a rich understanding of life here and the events that transpired during the harsh winter of 1777.

This was truly a moment for me to be standing in such a significant place. The east is rich in history that formed our young nation. Growing up in the west the only access to these events had been through history books. Its one thing to read about it and it is quite another to stand in the spot where it took place. The same rung true for our visit to Gettysburg. The warmth of the day gave way to a chill in the air as we made our way back to our coach arriving in near darkness.

We had lots to see across P.A. and scheduled an oil change for the coach during our tour of the state. On our way towards the service facility we tracked down a campground called Dutch cousins

located in an antique district of PA. Arriving after hours there was a sign on the door directing us to call Rachel to check in. I dialed the number and a man with a raspy voice answered the phone. I asked for Rachel and the voice said, “This is Rachel”… We stayed one night and headed toward Amish Country to experience a culture foreign from our own.

As we neared our campground we had the first of many Amish encounters as we shared the roadway with a horse and carriage piloted by a young couple in conservative Amish attire.

Amish life is a very different experience than growing up in Southern California. This was somewhat surreal as our only previous exposure to the Amish may have been briefly on television. We continued deep into Amish country in the rural rolling hills of Lancaster to White Oak Campground which was set on top one of the highest hills in the area.

A quite campground with only a handful of travelers offering showers rating very low on the “Happy shower” scale.

We had homework to catch up on and settled in for several nights with a planned day trip to Philly. Weather was moving in with rain and cold weather in the forecast. Cruddy weather makes schoolwork a bit easier to swallow.

The following evening during a hard driving rain I received phone call from “Rachel”. She had made a photocopy of my driver’s license and told me she still had it. She was over an hour away and offered to meet me half way to get it back to me. We agreed on a location and I left alone in the rain soaked darkness. I could barely see out of the windshield in the dark and the hills were filled with patchy fog. The windshield wipers cleared the water of the window but left an oily residue on the glass making visibility poor at best. It is a miracle I stayed on the roadway. I met up with Rachel, kissed her hand with gratitude and retrieved my license. I mean she had to be pushing eighty and to drive all that way in the pouring rain, well I was thankful.  I drove straight to an auto parts store and purchased new wipers which provided a drastic improvement eliminating the visibility issues I had experienced on the way there.

The following day the weather cleared and we made our way into Philadelphia. It was Veteran’s Day and we attended a service at the Veterans Memorial, visited the Liberty Bell, the home of Betsy Ross, Benjamin Franklin’s final resting place, Independence Hall, ate Philly Cheesesteaks at Jim’s Steaks on Sixth street and  topped it off with the Museum of Modern Art which is the location of the iconic stair climbing scene from the original Rocky movie.

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The Architecture here is a cool blend of New York, DC, San Francisco and East Coast turn of the century making Philadelphia truly unique.

We hung around the entrance to the museum and soaked in our day whilst looking across the illuminated city skyline. We all agreed we loved Philadelphia and our long drive home was filled with conversation of all things Philly. Pulling into the campground late that night, the misty fog lingered in the trees while miniature lawn pony statues made the perfect setting for a Wes Craven film.

We had a scheduled an oil change for the coach in Harrisburg. With a short stop over for service we made our way to the chocolate capital, Hershey for a quick tour, yummy samples and to purchase a few gifts.

An hour seemed to be enough so once again we headed through the darkness towards our next campsite, Caledonia State Park.

This put us within striking distance of Gettysburg, our final stop on our Pennsylvania tour.

Park Local

Been like that for a week

The road was narrow, hilly and winding. Head lights of oncoming traffic inflicted temporary blindness making the drive all the more difficult. On the way we ran across a pizzaria with my sisters family namesake.

We arrived before the weekend to a nearly full campground finding most every site to be sloped.  It was Mid November and the old man winter was slowly waking up. The nights were cold and the days were pleasant. By Sunday we were one of a handful of campers left in the small park.

We spent four days hunkered down catching up on school work and grading papers. We broke up the days with field trips of hiking, fishing and hatchet throwing.

Gettysburg gave all of us a somber insight into the civil wars bloodiest battles. Monuments dot the landscape paying tribute to the men who fought here.

They came from far and wide to fight for their beliefs and ultimately determine the direction of the country. The visitor’s center houses a museum housing countless artifacts of the war.

They say the countryside is still full of them but signs posted prohibit treasure hunting. Another must see at the visitors center is the Cyclorama, a three hundred sixty degree oil painting depicting the July 3^rd, 1863 battle at Gettysburg painted by Paul Dominique Philippoteaux.

You enter the Cyclorama from an escalator that delivers you upstairs into the middle of a round room. The circular room hosts the three hundred seventy seven foot long forty-two foot tall painting. The lights dim and a narrative comes over the speaker system illuminating the points discussed on the painting. Philippoteaux executed the painting largely be himself and his level of expertise is impressive. As we were leaving we encountered a captain who told us his role in the story of the war being conceded by General Lee.

It was another one of those “pinch me” moments where we walked away feeling so fortunate.

We have enjoyed a thread of history through our journey as we stood in the court house where Lincoln honed his skills as a young attorney and in front of the chair he was sitting in on that fateful evening at the Ford theater. Now to be standing where he gave his famous address was an amazing experience.

Newport… Rhode Island to New York City

With Massachusetts behind us we headed towards New York City. Our southern route brought us to another nice camp site, “Walmart of Rhode Island”.

Since we are from Newport Beach, California we couldn’t pass Newport, Rhode Island without taking a look.

Few offerings in the way of open campgrounds were available so we unhooked the truck and left the coach in the Walmart parking lot to drive thirty minutes into Newport. There is so much coastline to explore, we knew our meager amount of time here would be inadequate.

Established in 1620, Newport become a major port city in the 18^th century. It now contains the highest number of surviving colonial buildings anywhere in the country. The narrow cobblestone streets lined with historic buildings exude American History. With every turn, it became easy to imagine the time when Newport was a bustling port city free of motorcars. With little room between the street and the buildings it’s a wonder more people don’t get run over stepping out of their house.

As the day grew late we headed towards a spot called, “Land’s End” where a number of massive estates line this north facing stretch of coast. Parking at the head of the cove, a popular surf beach we set out along a path hugging the cliff’s edge and leading over several miles directly in front of a host of mansions.

Homes which were mostly constructed at the turn of the century. All of which are stately and unique. Most were fenced and sat above the path making it difficult to see but a few were in plain view.

We finally found our new home and comfortably settled in to soak up the view. The only thing missing was butler service.

As we made our way towards the point, I envisioned a swell rolling in with perfect surf but the water looked cold as the skies grew dark.

I would have to leave it to my imagination as we made our way back to the truck and eventually our Walmart campsite.

Rising sun and idling diesel truck engines started our travel day. Destination, New York City. We took a coastal route hoping to soak in every last sight of this New England coast line. There is so much to see here our short time here only left us making the commitment to return. Settling into the drive, cruising along we were making good time when the smell of propane filled the coach. The crew opened all the windows as we pulled off the road to assess the situation. Safely to the side of the road we all piled out of the coach while I investigated the source of the gas leak. Running down the check list everything seemed okay. The scent had dissipated and we elected to get back underway. Not ten minutes in, the smell was back and stronger this time. There were not many places to pull off the road but as we approached a small town we spotted a fire station and pulled directly in front of their driveway. Soon we had several firemen at our doorstep ready to help. The firemen suggested we take a test drive while they monitored the coach with sophisticated equipment designed to detect ignitable gas. As we made our way around a couple mile loop we met up with the Fire Chief in the Walmart parking lot.

They determined the odor was coming from our sink drains. Our holding tanks were half full and had been sloshing around during the drive stirring up our waste, “EW”. Since we always empty the tanks prior to a long drive we had never experienced the situation.  They suggested we stuff some rags over the sink drains to reduce the odor until we could empty our holding tanks. We all had a good laugh and thanked them for their help. We were back on the road to New York City.

Rolling down the eastern seaboard through Connecticut, New York and New Jersey, our anticipation grew as we neared the city. Upon breaking free of New York Traffic, entering the New Jersey expressways we were derailed by their toll road system. Signage was often confusing at best. We chose a lane which we identified as the cash lane. Once we made it to the toll booth they tried to charge us an exorbitant amount for not having a toll ticket. I refused to pay the fee letting the toll operator know that the signage was inadequate. He insisted we pay the full amount so I let him know he would have to tow our vehicle to get us to move. With a bit of back and forth he knocked seventy percent off the fee which we paid and continued on to Liberty Harbor RV Park located on the shores of New Jersey near the Statue of Liberty. Exiting the roadway we followed the detour signs through a rough looking neighborhood with bars on the windows and torn up streets. We were starting to question our route. Across the train tracks and down a single lane road towards a parking lot we continued to question where we were going.

Liberty Harbor RV Park is located in a parking lot sandwiched between commuter parking lots, a marina, a ship yard, and a low rise building under construction. We had read the reviews and knew most of what we were getting into. Proximity to New York City is the draw here. It’s located directly across the Hudson River from Manhattan and a few blocks from the Path train which leads into the city.

$98 bucks per night, 15 minutes to Manhattan

Campground / parking lot office

This was the start of our sixty-eight hour visit. After settling into our campsite we headed into the city. Walking the few blocks through the urban jungle to the Path train was a stark contrast from the state parks and nature filled campgrounds we had visited up to this point.

Our first city tour brought us to the site of the Twin Towers, Wall Street and then up town to Time Square. Educating the kids about 9/11 while standing at ground zero was surreal. We had visited in 2002 before we had children and similar emotions rapidly surfaced.

Heavy hearts flush with emotions, we fought to hold back tears while explaining the events to the kids. Sad for such loss, sad for the pain of so many. Though solemn, our sadness was eased with a sense of pride. Proud of the people of New York City, proud of the city it has become, proud of our country and proud to be an American. Our kids completely understood the gravity of that day. With full hearts and feeling blessed, we walked the few blocks to Wall Street and slowly shed our solemn cloaks to the sights of the city. Walking up to the Bull of Wall Street statue the line was equally as long to take a photo with both ends. We opted for the front end figuring Wall Street craps on enough people.

We caught the subway to Times Square and the kids became confused and amazed when we arose from the subway at ten thirty in the evening to the bright lights. Was it a time warp? Could it possibly be daytime? How could it be so bright? Neon, LED, Massive television monitors and light displays the size of buildings advertising everything from the latest hit-makers to underwear, the kids were in awe. Once we exited the subway we embraced the streets.

It was great seeing the kids experience the hustle and bustle of Times Square for the first time. Grabbing some New York pizza, we hung out until way past their bedtime and found ourselves returning to the campground around midnight. They were so wiped out and ready for bed they pushed through the walk of fear without complaint. It wasn’t until days later the kids only revealed they were scared walking down the empty streets in the middle of the night on the way to the coach from the train station.  Last thing before bed I turned the ac fans on to provide white noise drowning out the sounds of the city. It worked like a charm until the two boom trucks pulled up next to our coach to replace a high voltage transformer above our campsite. They backed their truck in so close I opened a window and offered one of the workers in the truck a cup of coffee.

Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and the Empire State building were on order for day two. Our campground / parking lot was a five minute drive to where we boarded the ferry to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Picking up tickets we asked if there were any torch tour tickets available as they require an advanced reservation. This tour allows you to climb a narrow stairwell up the ladies arm to the torch viewing platform. No luck, however they had some for the platform located just below where the statue is mounted on her pedestal. We got lucky as they only release a limited number of pedestal tickets each day and they typically are gone long  before we showed up.

First leg of the tour dropped us at Ellis Island where we met some Park Rangers who were New Yorkers through and through. At each State and National Park our children participate in a Junior Ranger program. They are provided educational booklets to complete by answering questions and recording relevant information as they tour the park. Once completed they may return to a ranger and receive a badge or a patch. All they while they have learned a great deal about the site. These rangers would be our most memorable to date. This was by far one of the busiest places we had been on the trip. The Rangers tuned into our kids and pulled us aside to give us information on where to get the most out of our time on the island. Sending us on our way they asked us to come back by on our way off the island.

Ellis Island was the choke hole for so many immigrating to our country seeking a new life. The last stop after a long journey before they were free to pursue their dreams. People were processed, evaluated and documented. Most were offered passage but there were those that were turned away and sent back to their country of origin. Days were long for those working on the Island due to the amount of people processed each day.

Ellis Island

The hall where everyone waited their turn to be proceessed

There were stories of workers becoming desensitized as a result of the situation, however there were also many stories of compassion. Stories of language interpreters being on the front line and helping individuals and families. These were the stories that stood out to me.  It was a lot to take in and after a long while the kids were ready to move on to the Statue of Liberty. We didn’t want to miss the ferry and almost blew off going back by the Rangers but didn’t want to be rude. This would be a valuable lesson as the Ranger was so engaging with our kids and made sure they had completed their packets. There were a ton of people here and they made us feel as though we had a private tour. After receiving their Junior Ranger badges the Ranger also gave us a coffee table book on the history of Ellis Island. A gesture not to be forgotten.

These Rangers exemplified compassion just like in the stories of many of the islands workers we had just learned about. We so appreciated them and expressed our gratitude as we said our goodbyes.

We boarded the ferry headed for the statue grateful for our experience. We were loving New York just maybe not expressing it as much as some of our fellow passengers.

It’s not surprising most of our New York friends have never been to either of these landmarks. I had never been here in my previous visits to New York. We lived in San Francisco for many years and would only visit Alcatraz if we had friends or family who wanted to go. I will say there is a real sense of pride approaching the Statue of Liberty from the water. If you live here it’s something you may just take for granted. An icon for our country the statue represents so much to so many. It is hard not to be excited. The jury is out as some of us thought island and statue are bigger than we imagined and some of us thought is was smaller.

Regardless, we made our way to the security check point to continue our tour. There is a tremendous amount of security at these landmarks spurred by 9/11. Once we were through security we made our way to the pedestal opting for the narrow corridor of stairs and catwalks over the elevator.  The stairs deliver you to the center of the platform just below the statue. At the top is a guard standing at the entrance to the torch where you can look up into the tight and steep stairwell leading upwards. To get to the pedestal however you may exit on each side stepping out into the fresh air onto a passage barely wide enough for two people side by side. We made sure to look at the views in every direction from all sides and four corners, taking lots of pictures.

The whole time pinching ourselves that we had made it here.  Once on the ferry with the copper lady behind us and Manhattan in front of us we were already talking about getting into the city to head to the top of the Empire State Building.

With a pit stop at the coach to take care of the dog we headed out to catch a train into the city. Every subway ride was a cool experience for the kids as we would descend from the bustle of the street through a utilitarian corridor to the noises of the trains below. It was awesome to see their confidence grow as we taught them how to navigate the train system.

Approaching the Empire State building we struggled to see the top as it was illuminated in a blue haze while the clouds enveloped the sky.

As we contemplated the sky prior to entering an employee let us know that visibility at the top would be zero due to the cloud cover. Sure we all want to see the city at night but for the kids just getting to the top was the prize. As we entered the building there were no less than six employees telling us about the poor visibility and that there are no refunds. We politely thanked them and continued on. Approaching the elevators the kids posed for a photo with a man sized statue of King Kong only to find out it was a costumed character who gave them a start as he came to life.

Entering the express elevator the kids couldn’t believe how many buttons there were for the corresponding floors. Almost to the top, we exited to another elevator to get to the viewing platform.

The entire time the staff were letting us know visibility was nearly zero. We stepped outside to the chilly, howling wind. The clouds were blowing by just below us. The guards on the observation deck were bundled up from head to toe trying to stay warm so high in the sky. Then something great happened, the clouds started to break apart offering spectacular views of the city.

We were in awe at the city lights and our good fortune. We soaked in the city from so high above. It couldn’t have been more perfect. As we left the clouds closed in and visibility diminished.

We were off to Chelsea District to meet up with an old friend of Laurels. which. She spent many years preforming in comedy clubs in the city and filled our time with laughs.

The kids had never laughed so hard, they were quickly enamored and didn’t want the evening to end.  But at midnight we said our goodbyes to our friend and the city as we took our sleepy kids on the train home. One last walk from the train station down the dark, foggy streets to the campground.

The kids were asleep before their heads hit the pillows.

New York City today is much different than the city I had first visited in Sixty1986. We experienced many people offer directions and assistance completely unsolicited. Equally when we asked a local to suggest a spot to grab a quick slice, directions or suggestions for a meal they went over and above in stopping to take all the time necessary to share their information. Many times it felt as though people were planted across the city just for us. We always practice situational awareness and the city felt as safe as I have ever known it to be. Due to our short time in the city and short notice of our itinerary we missed connecting with a few friends which provides a perfect excuse to return.