Our last of three different campsites in Sunshine Key was waterfront and perfect for launching our paddle boards. Although with all the rain our site was more of a lake which made paddling from the campsite to the ocean easier. The view made the extra water tolerable.

Florida 1.31.2016

Our time in the Keys came to a close in early February and we were ready to get back on the road and experience new adventures. We relished our time here and filled our last few days in the Keys with beach time. While we loved our time here we looked forward to heading out to new adventures.

February 8^th departure day after two months at Sunshine Key. It would have been easier if it was pouring rain or freezing cold, but it seemed like a near perfect day in the Keys. We focused on the road ahead and re-entered the society de Vagabond.

From perfect weather to weather changing on a daily basis. Winds, rains, leaking RV, leaking truck,

moving campsites three times,

Saturday night Ice cream socials,

doing laundry in a perpetually flooded laundry room, Joe & Tina & Gerry & Mindy who ran the cafe, Rich the magician who provided magical entertainment, a positive attitude and all around great guy, Tom & Donna, Nancy & Tubbs, Lynn & Dean, Mike & Sara, Gayle & Bill, the Milburn’s, all of whom were our Sunshine Key friends and neighbors,  visits from friends and family, who traveled across the country to spend time with us,

live music,

swimming pool, pool parties, jello shots from the volunteer ladies, manatee’s in the marina,

Beautiful Bahia Honda State Park,

fishing from the pier,

Seven Mile Bridge,

Conch Republic,

local iguanas,

Kyra’s cupcakes, trips to Key West,

the pastor at New Life church who always seemed to sing off key, the clear water,

and endless sunsets.

With wonderful memories seared in our hearts we knew we would miss the familiarity but absolutely looked forward to getting back on the road.

Departure Day, February 8th. Say goodbye to the keys.

Dry Tortugas National Park

Robbed of sleep by pure excitement, I struggled to make out the time through the glow of my iPhone’s lock screen. A familiar restlessness from such nights spent listening to a swell building in the darkness knowing you will be out for a surf at first light. Or nights spent in the mountains peeking out the window at the closest street light to see how hard it’s snowing, hoping for fresh tracks in mornings new blanket of powder.

3:46 AM and only a couple more hours until departure for the Dry Trotugas National Park. The Dry Tortugas are the southern-most national park in the United States located on a small group of islands seventy miles below Key West. I had read about them early on in my research for our trip while looking for a campground in the Florida Keys. It was a place I knew we should visit. Further confirmed by half a dozen seasonal campers in our campground who let us know it was a must when visiting the lower keys or Key West. In fact every person I asked about the Dry Tortugas said the same thing, “You gotta go”.

Weather had been consistently windy and rainy. With ten days left in the Keys I was hoping for a break in the weather for the trip. Using all the weather forecast tools at my disposal I chose the best looking day out of the next two weeks and made reservations aboard the ferry. The Yankee Freedom III is a one hundred ten foot, high speed, all aluminum catamaran. With a two hundred fifty passenger capacity, indoor/ outdoor seating, she offers a comfortable ride.

We lucked out as smooth turquoise seas and soft winds laid before us pulling out of Key West.

The Catamaran cut through the crystal clear waters offering a smooth ride in the early morning.

The bottom depth varies from ten to fifty feet on average. Water clarity is beautiful offering a view of the bottom almost the entire trip. Abundant sea life gave us glimpses of sea turtles and flying fish.

Two hours and fifteen minutes later we were alone with one hundred sixty-eight strangers on Garden Key, home to Fort Jefferson. We passed several atolls as we pulled around the island to the main dock. We were at the front of the line to depart the ship and made haste to get on land, pick a spot to set our belongings and explore the island.

Fort Jefferson was built in between 1846 and 1875 to protect one of the most strategic deep water anchorages in North America. This provided an advance post for the United States to patrol the Gulf of Mexico and the Straits of Florida. Fort Jefferson was one of the largest forts ever built. Nearly thirty years to construct, using over thirty million bricks Fort Jefferson was never finished nor fully armed. Yet it was a link in a chain of coastal forts that stretched from main to California. During the Civil War, Union warships used the harbor in their campaign to blockade southern shipping. The fort was also used as a prison, mostly for Union deserters.  Housing its most famous prisoner Dr. Samual Mudd, the physician who set the broken leg of John Wilkes Booth. Though used briefly in both world wars the fort was ultimately abandoned by the Army in 1874.

Today Fort Jefferson is protected by the National Parks and is currently undergoing preservation efforts. The park service is stabilizing and restoring the nineteenth century masonry structure for future generations to enjoy.

While the fort is the primary landmark here the real jewel is the location. The pristine waters here are within reach of the third largest barrier reef in the world. Warm and clear, it’s perfect for snorkeling and diving.

Our time here was too brief and we knew that like many other places we have visited, vowed to return.

With some planning you are able camp on the island. You must pack in and pack out everything including food and water as this is a very remote and isolated location. In the event of an injury you are on your own. I spoke with a couple of people who had spent the night and they said, “when the ferry pulls away from the dock,  that’s when you feel truly isolated”. There are a few park rangers who live on the island full time but you are on your own. Once everyone leaves the island it y becomes your own and the real bonus is the sky full of stars free from any light pollution.  Camping overnight here remains on our bucket list.

Dry Tortugas National Park

Yankee Freedom III

 

Early January gave way to some epic hot and sunny days. Between school work we tried to get out and take advantage of every one.

We took our boat to Money Key just a few miles north of our campsite near the Seven Mile Bridge. Keeping up with it’s namesake Gavin found a quarter less than five minutes from stepping foot on the island.

The water was super clear, perfect for snorkeling and searching for Conchs.

We took our bikes to the north side of the Seven Mile Bridge and rode along the old section of the first Seven Mile Bridge to Pigeon Key. Pigeon Key housed many of the workers who constructed the first bridge which supported a train track and now offers tours. We opted for the self guided ride.

It was around nine o’clock and hot. The five mile ride seemed longer in the tropical heat. If only there was surf here to help us cool off.

There are several structures on Pigeon key but only a couple people live full time on the island.

We were treated to a perfect view of three Spotted Eagle Rays riding the current flowing under the bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

Turn around and head back.

Key West

Hard to believe, but it took us three and a half weeks before we made our first of several trips to Key West. Although the drive is less than forty miles from our campsite we were too busy making the most of our time on on Sunshine Key to make the trek until now.

Seeing pictures of this spot from time to time through out my life, it was a bit surreal to be standing here with my family.

We parked a couple of spots away from ground zero marking the East coast’s Highway 1.

This beautiful house caught my eye when we first drove into town. We would later find out it was previously owned by Calvin Klein.

Key West has a colorful history and while we try to stay away from touristy attractions, a ride on the Conch Train provided great insight into the goings on of this southern most spot. The Conch Train’s conductor weaves through the streets of Key West narrating the history of it’s colorful people, politics, history and landmarks.

Back at Sunshine Key

Even though it was mid January, back at Sunshine Key we hung Christmas lights on Bungalow number one in anticipation of our friends arrival from California. Close friends from our neighborhood back home were making the trip to see us and hang in the Keys for a week. They reserved a bungalow on the water next to the fishing pier.  Our kids could barely contain their excitement as their two boys are our boys best friends. On top of that we had family consisting of Uncle Mike and Grandpa Pete coming in at the same time. We felt so lucky and appreciated so much everyone making such a long journey to see us.

As much as we hoped for a solid week of sunny weather for our company we were delivered a number of rainy days during their visit. It poured the first night so we hunkered down in our coach, made dinner and the men played poker wearing funny hats while the kids played games and the wives caught up.

We lucked out with a break in the weather so we headed down to Bahia Honda State Park.

Our friends had a list of things they wanted to do and we didn’t let any foul weather stand in the way.

Heading back to Sunshine in our small boat we beckoned the incoming foul weather to hold off. We laughed in the face of the impending storm.

 

We were back in the safety of our coach before the skies opened up. Mother nature always wins.

The following day gave way to an opening in the weather so we headed back to Key West with the whole crew.

Conch Train Tour for everyone while Laurel and I snuck away to a local watering hole.

Hemingway’s House

Hemingway’s house is a must see. His history career and history in Key West are legendary.

Our tour guide along with one of the resident six toed cats. Hemingway was fond of the creatures and had dozens living on the property during his life here.

Hemingway’s studio which sits separate from the main house had  it’s own private second floor entrance.

The boys and one of the many resident six toed cats.

 

We headed to the beach as the storm continued to move in to find SURF!!! I spoke with a local who said it gets like that once every, like…TEN YEARS.

The Conch Republic

The following day the weather cooperated so we piled in the boat and all headed to The Conch Republic next to Sunshine Key. Since we all couldn’t fit in the boat I shuttled everyone back and forth.

The following day our friends headed back to California. So sad to see them go as the visit was too short. We were so grateful for the time together and appreciate all the energy that went into making the trip.

We still had a couple of days with Uncle Mike and Papa Pete so we headed up to Isla Morada to check out a house Pete once owned, have lunch and visit Cheeca Lodge.

Pete’s old house is behind all the greenery. With eighteen inch cinder block walls, it was designed to withstand hurricanes.

Cheeca Lodge was the childhood playground for my wife and her cousins during their visits to the Keys.

 

It was fully remodeled in 2008 and hosts such distinguished visitors as George W. Bush and actor/musician Steve Martin.

After a tour of Cheeca Lodge we headed to a local lunch spot and continued to enjoy family time over local fare.

Parker lovin his lunch.

Thank you again to our family and friends for making the trip. It was great to spend time with everyone and we appreciate deeply your efforts to make it happen.

 

As parents we were looking forward to experiencing a very different Holiday season void of the typical hustle and bustle. We had prepared the kids for a scaled down Christmas and with mild skepticism the seemed excited. Many of the campsites were decorated for the Holidays which helped fuel our Christmas spirit despite the warm weather. I was stoked to light up a single palm tree to guide Santa’s sleigh.

We purchased a small artificial tree and made all of the ornaments from sea shells and found objects.

Christmas Day proved epic as the weather was perfect, the kids were pleased with a different holiday experience and there were no set plans. So the boys opted for a day on the boat while the girls hung out at the pool.

It was a pinch yourself sort of day filled with sun, sea and discovery.

Everyone came together over the sounds of Redhead Express, a tight and talented family rockin a cool country sound.

The kids Hangin with the very talented Amond from the Redhead Express.

The kids were loving the weeks between Christmas and New Years as there were kids all over the place. They would leave early in the morning and be full throttle until ten every night.

The New Years Crew

Sadly, after New Years all of those kids went home and ours were back at their studies while they waited for their west coast friends and family to arrive in January.

More quiet days gave way to breezy nights illuminated by the glory of the full moons glow.

The holidays would be extra special as we were expecting family and friends from the west coast coming for a visit.

 

On the way down the east coast of Florida this west coast surfer was hoping to sample some of the better known breaks. However, the weather and surf weren’t cooperating. Plus the family had been relentlessly chanting, “Sunshine Key”! Even the dog was wanting to move on since the locals weren’t so into him.

There were a couple reminders of the surf spots along the roadway requiring focus to miss the exits.

Heading south, the 95 freeway is littered with East Coast surf shop billboards.

Our last campsite before the final leg to Sunshine Key.

Squawking parrots seemed to be the perfect alarm clock for our travel day into Jimmy Buffet territory. The flock was flying from tree to tree around our parking lot campsite at Bedner’s Farm in West Palm Beach.

For the last twenty-two years my wife has been suggesting we go to a warm place during our winter holiday. However, my love of skiing and the mountains have landed us in the snow every winter. I thought I would make it up to her by booking two months in the Florida Keys to wait out the coldest months of the year.

Sunshine Key was waiting for us, but once we left the mainland our travel day was filled with very little sunshine. Rain would be the order for our stay in the Keys as locals continued to tell us it was the most wet and windy winter they had in the last twenty-five years. It’s all relative as the wettest and windiest day in the Keys seemed far better weather than the rest of the country in December and January.

Arriving to Sunshine Key on December Eighth we settled into a prime campsite near the water.

We were greeted by the locals.

Manatees drink fresh water and have an uncanny ability to locate it often traveling many miles through the ocean to their next water source. This manatee would sip on dripping water from the dock for thirty minutes at a time.

And our first heart filling sunset.

Sunshine Key is located eight miles below the city of Marathon and just above Bahia Honda State Park. Or as the locals call it, Mile Marker 38.

It becomes a seasonal home to many folks escaping the cold of the northeast. There are roughly four hundred sites along with some cabanas and trailers they rent out nightly. Included in the facilities are a marina, clubhouse, cafe, tennis courts, beach, fishing pier, pool, bait & tackle shop and gas station. Along with weekly activities like Ice Cream Socials and water access for our paddle boards,  there was a lot to keep us busy.

Evidently Sunshine Key and Marina management had experience with a variety of plumbing issues.

However, school was still on order although the kids seemed happy to get their studies out of the way in the classroom of the open sky.

Parker and I did a bit of work along the shoreline to lessen it’s burden of garbage. In less than an hour we picked up over thirty gallons of trash. No coastline is immune to the effects of  man and we pick up trash regularly.

This place is less than a quarter mile from our campground and it’s called paradise beach. There was much more work to be done. It would be closer to paradise without the trash. This seemed completely unnecessary. While much of the trash made it in the cans there was a lot that missed. It left us wishing all humans would respect our beaches.

Cleaner shores at our go to spot at Sunshine Key, the fishing pier.

We took full advantage of the fishing pier often getting there before daylight and back at it until the sun went down. There were a few keepers here and there and good times always.

Excited to get our boat in the water, we found out perfect boating days were infrequent due to wind and rain. When the weather proved good for boating we dropped everything and hit the water.

The first opportunity we had we launched and went to Conch Republic, an island just east of our campground, small enough to walk around in fifteen minutes. With reef on one side and sand on the other it was a fun place to explore.

Conch Republic is where we met Bernie. Bernie, a retired high school teacher was in a skiff with two dogs.  He was the perfect example of a drunken sailor. He kept telling us we were lucky to run into him as he was going to let us know the best places to visit but never really did. He let his dogs run around the small island for a while before he started yelling for them to get in the boat. In a low, rolling growl he proceeded to yell, ,”MANGO, BOAT, NOW!” over and over. He must of yelled twenty times and it only became comical when he told us the dog is deaf. Now anytime we run across a mango fruit we think of Bernie and The Conch Republic.

A short boat ride away lies one of the most sought after campgrounds in Florida, Bahia Honda State Park. Hosting a small marina, off shore anchorage, camping, amazing beaches, beautiful water and the cheapest, best ice cream around. We made many a trip by land and sea to Bahia Honda.

Best Ice Cream Ever!

Fishing was a blast but I never seemed to have enough time on the water.

The weeks leading up to Christmas were filled with many hot tropical days and sunset filled evenings.

The campground was only a quarter full with most of the seasonal campers due to show up after Christmas. Besides Santa we had a lot to look forward to over the Holidays as we had family and friends coming to visit all the way from California.